Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/51841
MANAGEMENT MARKET WATCH C o n t i n u e d terroir. It's that value that helps keep us on target, even if, from a marketing angle, it might be tempt- ing to ride the wave of fashion, be it (with) high alcohol, hyper-oaking, micro-oxygenation, etc. "That said, from a technical point, Ridge has certainly evolved over the decades. We have a mod- ern lab at both our Monte Bello and Lytton Springs wineries. But the purpose of our laboratory is to mon- itor the wine, not make it. Deci- sions are made by tasting the wine multiple times over its evolution with the uniqueness of the given vineyard in mind rather than trying to guess what is fashionable in the upcoming year." Christopher Sawyer, somme- lier at Carneros Bistro & Wine Bar in Sonoma, Calif., has seen diners recently embrace zinfandels that have less bombast and potency. "Customers have started to share my opinion (on zinfandel) much more now than they did five years ago," he said. "For starters, it's hard to eat a delicate fish dish with a zinfandel with 16.2% alco- hol. Consumers with more devel- oped palates like to taste wines with more nuances and finesse, instead of wines that are simply power-driven and only go with bar- becued meats, hard cheeses, dark chocolate or a cigar." In pouring at Beverages & More grand openings and other consum- er tastings, I often find wide vari- ances in the reactions customers have with zinfandel-based wines. At one recent event, I poured the 2009 Orin Swift Prisoner, a zin- fandel-predominant blend, and received profoundly different reac- tions. California palates loved the wine (15.4% alcohol and around 1% residual sugar), yet foodies screamed, "Too fruity, too heavy and too sweet." The wine is one of BevMo's best-selling reds. Needless to say, zinfandel is loved by a large group of wine drinkers and for different reasons. From white zin to port styles, the variety knows no bounds. The best producers have a clear vision of what kind of wine they want to produce. Those who prefer boister- ous, jammy zinfandels, those who aim for elegance and subtlety, and those who split the middle, can achieve their favored style in the vineyard, paying close attention to ripeness levels, exposure to sun- light, crop loads, picking decisions, fruit sorting and more. Remember Ehren Jordan's com- ment about making zin the same way today as he did at Turley nearly 20 years ago. The only essential difference is that advances in the vineyards have finally caught up with the visions of California's fin- est zinfandel makers. Comments? Please e-mail us at feedback@vwm-online.com. ARTISAN WINERY SPECIALISTS From growing young vines to producing fine wines. . . the ultimate pairing of local knowledge and financial expertise. • Calibration-free Temperature Control • Fermentation Status From Anywhere • Brix/Temp/Pump-over Tracking • Alarms via E-mail or Text • Production Software Interfaces • Cellar Temperature, Humidity & CO2 • Flexible Energy Management Tools STEVE HERRON Senior Vice President herrons@exchangebank.com 707.524.3102 Member FDIC www.exchangebank.com 30 VINEYARD & WINERY MANAGEMENT JAN - FEB 2012 WWW.VWM-ONLINE.COM 707 938-1300 WWW.ACROLON.COM INNOVATION ® 12th RELIABILITY