Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/561374
w w w. v w m m e d i a . c o m S e p t - O c t 2 015 | V I N E YA R D & W I N E RY M A N A G E M E N T 3 1 + Cap management greatly affects phenolic extraction and influences palatability and style of red wine. + If allowed to remain sus- pended, the cap will over- heat and dry out, minimizing color and tanning extraction. + The two primary methods of mixing the tank are punch- down and pumpover. + Cold soaks, pumpovers and punchdowns, fermentation temperature and kinetics, all impact the final wine color and phenolics. + The winemaker should taste the fermentations at least once a day to adjust the cap management protocol. AT A GLANCE uring fermentation red-grape berries and skins, which are less dense than the liquid, are carried to the top of the vat by the carbon dioxide released. This cre- ates a layer referred to as the cap. Cap management during fermen- tation will greatly affect phenolic extraction and strongly influence red-wine palatability and style. Additionally, proper cap man- agement will minimize the risk of faults arising from surface yeasts, homogenizes the fermentation temperature between the cap and the liquid, and facilitates fermenta- tion by the addition of oxygen. Con- versely, allowing the cap to remain suspended will overheat and dry it out, minimizing extraction of color and tannin, and opening the door to undesirable microbes such as ace- tic acid bacteria. Fruit integrity after destem- ming will play a key role in the consistency of the cap, especially at the onset of fermentation. Vig- orous crushing favors the extrac- tion of astringent and bitter tannins because it increases the concentra- tion of nonsoluble solids. Extraction techniques that cause seed scar- ring or breakage should be avoided. Minimal crushing prolongs the fermentation, decreases the phe- nolic extraction and increases fruit aromatic character. The volatile aro- matic compounds of wines can be lost during vigorous fermentation due to entrainment in the carbon dioxide produced by the yeast. In addition, volatilization of these char- acters occurs more rapidly at higher temperatures, and more rapid fer- mentations release more heat. In whole-berry fermentation, the pres- ence of the intact berries retains some of the volatile compounds within those berries. When the ber- ries are crushed or pressed later in Photo: L.G. Sterling/Iron Horse Vineyards Cap Management During Fermentation Various techniques are based on red-wine variety, wine style the fermentation, once the yeast is past the vigorous stage, the aroma characters will remain in the wine. To illustrate the range of cap management techniques available in high-end winemaking, and to showcase the differences in man- agement strategies among grape varieties, I talked to two prominent Northern California winemakers to understand their preferences and protocols for cap management and red-wine fermentation techniques. PINOT, CAB MAKERS WEIGH IN Jerome Chery's career has pri- marily been focused on producing Pinot Noir since 2000, with experi- ence in the Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley, Anderson Valley and Carneros regions. He made his mark largely at Saintsbury, and currently is a consulting winemaker whose proj- ects include Fog Crest Vineyard and Quell in Russian River Valley. Nate Weis is the winemaker at Silver Oak Cellars, which focuses SOIL & CELLAR REMI COHEN