Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/581281
42 STiR tea & coffee industry international / Issue 5, 2015 (October/November) There are always third-party certifications (with several to choose from) attesting that growers conform to specific guide- lines. But the nano-, micro-, and small-roasters need more than that. Certification does not guarantee a coffee will taste great. Roasters want trustworthy taste profiles fitting their own chosen style. Their customers demand nothing less. Wennersgaard lived at origin cupping through the seasonal harvest monitoring the milling, drying, and the shipping of each individual lot and then reported every aspect to buyers. His re- port extended the meaning of traceability and are closely linked to the individual perception of quality. This transparency also involves a deeper and more profound relationship to the farmer. The Nordic Approach assumes farmers should be rewarded for their efforts in supplying outrageously fine coffees, repeatedly. If the standards do not measure up this year Wennersgaard of- fers personal advice to insure further improvement. This kind of interaction is time consuming but adds value to every partici- pant along the entire supply chain. To please customers modern roasters want more than roast- ing profiles and hard facts. They also want to know about family life at the farm. A modern trader provides that in detail. Sharing descriptions with photos and videos of farm life are welcome. Successful roasters often develop long-term relationships with the farm which extends and adds new meaning to the value of single estate. "Connecting producers with consumers, through a roaster's branding of the single farms etc., is in my opinion key to more sustainable farming and coffee production," writes Wenners- gaard. "It can really be emotional observing a farmer or a coffee farming family looking at a coffee bag with their name on it. Specially when it is the first time they have ever experienced it." Time flies Thalma is now a 9-year-old school girl with a little sister, Maria, 3. The the new approach has been successful. Nordic Approach has expanded from a few nano roast customers to clients in 20 central and western European countries. "UK and Scandinavia are our biggest markets and we ran- domly sell to clients in 15 countries worldwide including Austra- lia, Asia, the US and Saudi Arabia," he says. "Working on product development together with growers is probably the most satisfying thing for me as a coffee buyer," he says. "Small things in the process can make huge differences in the cup, and for the premiums received by the grower. But most importantly when it works and you commit it builds trust and strong relationships," said Wennersgaard. The staff has expanded from one to six highly skilled professionals all recruited from the core of the quality coffee trade. Sourcing remains focused on East Africa but has also led to direct trade relationships with growers in Central and South America. There is a new office, with a new lab including options to test how coffee behaves and pleases under different roasting and brewing regimes. This is as close to the essence of coffee as it gets. One thing remains the same though. Wennersgaard still wear boots half the time, and he still can- not find his tie. Cupping at governmental test station Coffee farm in Nyeri Kenya. Washing arabica in Kenya Daughter Thalma helps cull cherries Cupping in Kenya