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Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/35338
A focus on fresh, handmade cocktails has changed the face of mixers and purees at the bar. By Michelle Paolillo Lockett he fresh cocktail movement has been making its way across the U.S. for years. Th is focus on artisanal, fresh cocktails continues to evolve as bar managers are taking their queue from the kitchen in the mixers and purees that they choose. Frozen purees and freshly made syrups that have been commonplace in the kitchen for years are now being used behind the bar, replacing the sweeter mixers of years past. “Th ere has been a big shift coming from the cities away from sweet cocktails to more balanced cocktails,” explains Chris Simons, restaurant, bar and beverage manager at the 262-room Th e Jeff erson Hotel in Richmond, Virginia. “I started seeing this in our market about a year ago.” Bar managers agree that the kitchen has played a key role in the decision to switch to more natural purees and drink styles. “Th e fruit purees were used in making sorbets and by pastry chefs and a lot of bartenders started to realize they are really great fruit fl avors,” says Jonathan Pogash, the “Cocktail Guru” who consults for New York City restaurants like Madison & Vine, Th e Empire Room, Th e Campbell Apartment and Bookmarks Lounge. “A lot of inspiration for the bar comes from the kitchen.” Th e focus for mixers continues to be on high-end and exotic, in a move away from the sweet blender drinks, say many bar www.cheersonline.com managers. Frozen purees, artisan syrups and high-end sodas allow bars to serve consistent cocktails despite the season and consumers are literally drinking them up. PUREED PERFECTLY Th e decision to use pre-made purees over fresh-squeezed juices often comes to consistency—giving bartenders the ability to make a balanced drink despite the season—and the availability of specifi c juices. Th e bar managers we spoke with use a mix of fresh juices with the ready-made purees that include brands such as Th e Perfect Purée of Napa Valley, Monin, Boiron and Funkin. “Th ey used Perfect Puree in our pastry department and we saw how consistent it was,” says Simons, who regularly uses Perfect Purée, Fever Tree Tonic and Gosling Ginger Beer in his high-end cocktails. “It makes our bartenders’ lives easier.” He notes that the purees are easy to stack in the freezer and are high quality. “Th e quality is something that matches what we can do,” Simons explains. “We try to make fresh juices whenever possible, but a lot of time the fruit we need isn’t available.” Pogash has been using frozen fruit purees for years and says his use of purees versus fresh fruit is about a 50-50 mix. “It’s easy and it’s already prepared,” he explains. “Sometimes the JULY/AUGUST 2011 | 29