Eno Vino in Seattle features wine lockers and serves a wide range of Washington wines.
Washington State wines are popular with operators for their exceptional quality and value, but many customers haven’t caught on yet.
Sommeliers’ Secret By Thomas Henry Strenk T
he second-largest wine producer in the U.S., Washington State is eclipsed in consumers’ eyes by its viniferous neighbors to the south, California and Oregon. But for
many sommeliers and wine directors, the Evergreen State is their go-to for well-made whites like riesling and chardonnay, rich and spicy reds and especially Bordeaux-style blends, cabernet sauvignon and syrah—and most importantly for great value. According to preliminary estimates by the Beverage Information Group, Cheers parent company, volumes of Washington wine were up a respectable 3.3 percent in 2010, to 9.3 million 9-liter cases. With more consumer education and on-premise promotions showing off Washington’s depth and breadth, the state will be able to take its place in the pantheon of world-class wine. “Washington gives you a better bang for the buck than
California,” declares Scott Harney, wine director at Eno Wine Bar in the almost 800-room Hotel Intercontinental Chicago,
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part of a fi ve-unit chain owned by Chicago-based Strategic Hotels & Resorts. Eno off ers some 800 wines by the bottle, ranging from $20 to $3,500; but more than half are priced under $50. Over 10 percent are from Washington State, says Harney, largely cabernet sauvignons and Bordeaux blends. “Washington wines are defi nitely good value,” echoes Jeff rey
Dorgan, sommelier at Sullivan’s Steakhouse in Seattle, part of the 29-unit Sullivan’s/Del Frisco’s steakhouse chain. Of the restaurant’s 450-bottle list (priced $25 to $650), about 150 are Washington wines. Columbia Crest is the house pour; 30 wines are available by the glass, priced $8 to $17. Th e Seattle location accounts for part of that specialization, but Dorgan says that Washington wines are well represented at the other Sullivan’s and Del Frisco’s restaurants. Many of the state’s great value wines are produced by multi-
label powerhouse Chateau Ste. Michelle, whose total production is estimated to account for slightly more than one third of the state’s total wine production according to last year’s fi gures from
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