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the Washington State Liquor Control Board. Its dominance of the wine market is generally viewed in a positive light as the company has been historically supportive of the state’s many other wineries. SELECTION ACROSS PRICE POINTS Washington boasts over 700 wineries with 40,000 acres planted statewide. “In spite of the recent economic malaise, we continue to grow, both in terms of number of wineries and acres planted,” says Ryan Pennington, a spokesperson for the Seattle-based Washington State Wine Commission. “And the state continues to see growth in sales as well.” Washington’s top varietals include riesling, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and Cchardonnay, with each accounting for 18 to 20 percent of total production. Th e state is perhaps best known currently for its Bordeaux-style blends. “I look to Washington for Bordeaux-style wines, cabernets and merlots and white blends, sémillon and sauvignon blanc,” says Jenni Cameron, wine director at Eno Vino Wine Bar & Bistro in Madison, Wis. Right now she carries just a handful of Washington wines but aims to add more as she doubles her list to 300 bottles. Eno Vino’s bottles are priced $28 to $400; 42 wines are off ered by the glass, priced $7 to $13. Syrah is another important varietal for the Evergreen State, accounting for six to seven percent of production, but generating outsized interest among wine professionals lately. “Wines from Washington are just phenomenal, but what’s really up and coming there now is syrah,” enthuses Michael M. Scheifl er, area manager at the Pacifi c Northwest restaurant the Artist Point in Walt Disney World’s Wilderness Lodge in Orlando. Th e state’s wines are a natural for the restaurant, which draws inspiration from Northwest National Park lodges. About half of the 130 wines on Artist’s list hearken from Washington; bottles run $35 to $230; the selection of 50 glasses is priced $8 to $15. Scheifl er adds that many other Disney restaurants off er Washington wines as well. “One thing they do really well in Washington is syrah and Rhône varietal blends,” concurs Peter Powlovich, one of the wine managers at Grill 23 & Bar, a steakhouse in Boston. “It’s been cited by a lot of other sommeliers and the wine magazines.” In Grill 23’s inventory of 1,700 bottles, priced from $30 to more than $4,000, Washington wine accounts for about 50 of the selections, including a score of cabernets and Bordeaux blends and 10 syrahs. “You can fi nd great quality and great value coming out of Washington. It can be hit or miss, though,” amends Powlovich. EVERGREEN BENEFITS With over 700 wineries and 40,000 acres planted statewide, Washington ranks second only to California in terms of production. Almost all wine grapes are grown on the east side of Cascades, where the desert-like climate enjoys over three hundred days of sunshine annually. Because of its northerly latitude, at the height of the growing season, Washington receives nearly two hours more of daylight per day than www.cheersonline.com California, extending the growing season and boosting fl avor development from greater hang time. “It’s perfect for grape-growing there,” says Disney’s Scheifl er. “Th e dryness stresses the vines; the temperature is cool and the grapes love it. Th e glacier fl ows brought much volcanic ash and nutrients to the vineyards, so the wines have a lot of minerals.” In general, Washington wines are typifi ed by a combination of the balance and structure of Old World wines with the bright and vibrant fruit fl avors and approachability of New World wines. Th ey also possess high levels of natural acidity, which make the wines very food-friendly. STATE CHALLENGES Despite the many enological advantages, Washington wines command only a four percent market share nationally. Why are they not top of mind with most American consumers? Several factors conspire to dampen awareness: misperceptions about the state’s wine regions, many small producers, a shortage of wide distribution and lack of a strong niche. “When most people think of Washington, they think of rainy Seattle,” explains Cameron. Th at’s why Eno Vino’s wine list Eno Wine Bar pairs wine with plates of cheese and chocolate. JULY/AUGUST 2011 | 43