Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/574264
Fall 2015 | Mise en Place | 5 T here's been many discussions lately regarding the "shortcomings" of our industry, the aws in our educational systems, the general downward spiral of the calibre of "cooks" and cooking techniques, on various threads and posts. I would like to look at it from a dierent perspective; to put a "posi- tive spin" on the topic, and formulate some con- structive discussion regarding our "state of aairs". We're chefs. We did not get to where we are today with defeatist aitudes, or complaining about our "lot in life". We are where we are through hard work, perseverance and an unbending intent to succeed. We've "Run the Gauntlet" to get to where we are. We are resourceful, tenacious, stubborn, idealistic, purists, and perfectionists; we are passionate and dedicated, (I dare anyone to try and tell me dierent). It was in a discussion recently that fellow Chef David Buchanan used the analogy of "Running the Gauntlet", referring to a concept that I had brought up, "survival of the est" in the kitchen and the failure rate of people in the kitchen before they make it to a chef 's position. When Chef David said this to me the "light bulb" went o for this article. "e Gauntlet" is the stumbling blocks, the dicult circumstances, the low pay, the long hours, unreasonable demands, the stress, physical demands and HOT kitchens, etc. And not to forget, the neverending knowledge that we are constantly learning; our's is a vocation that we will be learning about til the day we die. In the recent discussion I referred to these conditions as a "weaning" process to "thin the herd", this is the reality of the kitchen, I don't think I can change it so I have to accept it. In accepting it I understand that this is the true school for cooks, (we are all cooks, "Chef " is an appointment and you beer be a damn good cook before you accept a chef 's position), it is the nature of the business and maybe it's this way to provide that weaning process, if one is not capable, one will never pass all the "tests" that are put on the cook's path. It is the "school of hard knocks" that we all have to go through to succeed in this business. Speaking of school and to address a hotly discussed topic from some other posts/threads is the calibre of culinary students coming out of our schools. I have the world of respect for our instructors, the instructors at my college were excellent but the students emerging presently have an aitude. I was told in cooking school, Running the gauntlet By Chef Randy Burns emphatically and repetitively, that I was learning the basics, that I would learn more in the industry, aer 3 years, (basically an apprenticeship), I may get a commis position, it would take several years to go through demi chef, then chef de partie, and maybe, if I was decent, a sous chef 's position in 6 to 8 years, easily 10 years or more before I could think about a chef 's position. is is what we were told in our cooking school, (1982). I don't understand the graduating students emerging from college now expecting to get chef 's positions. is is where "e Gauntlet" begins to take it's toll, the "thinning of the herd". (Of the 18 students in my cooking class most were out of the business in the rst year, the nal one to quit lasted 4 years). ese students are already coming in at a disadvantage due to their aitude and are in for a rude awakening, (hopefully there are some students, apprentices and recent grads reading this). e issue is not the schools or instructors, there is far too much knowledge required to be taught in a limited amount of time, everyone needs to come in with their eyes open, it will take years, and you have to survive "e Gauntlet". "e Gauntlet" is the years of pressure, stress, being yelled at by "e Chef ", geing burned, cuing yourself, suering from bouts of "e Wolf ", (you know, the chang in the buocks remedied with corn starch), being "in the shit", etc.; it is our real teacher and it is brutal. Hence my analogy of "thinning the herd", survival of the est". As we all know the failure rate in the kitchen is high, but maybe for good reason. I am realizing, and it is from recent discussions that have crystallized it in my mind, that this is the natural order of kitchens, (anks Chef Buchanan). It is what it is. So what's the point I'm trying to reach? It's a Saturday night, 7:30, your second seating is starting to arrive. You're overbooked, your combi- oven has just "crapped out" on you, your 2nd Cook/Demi-Chef, in the salad/cold app station, is on the way to the hospital to get stitches, (only because you have no time to stitch them yourself ), I could go on but I think you get the idea. What do you do? (remember you're the Chef ). Do you cry and whine? Do you run to the oce with a bole of Vodka? Do you have a tantrum with yelling and screaming? Of course not. You put on your "game face", you delegate, you organize, you work your ass o, you sweat. You end up with a successful night. Why? Because you've survived years of training by "e Gauntlet", it is "e Gauntlet" that has prepared you for this moment, (and every moment that you go through on a daily basis). "e Gauntlet" will "make you or break you" and if you haven't been trained, passed the tests put on your path you will never survive a night like the one I just described. We need "e Gauntlet" to teach us and take us to that higher level of performance. It is an integral part of our careers. I'm accepting that this is our "reality" in the kitchen, like the Saturday night dinner scenario I just mentioned there's nothing I can do about it so I'll put on my "game face" and just work with it. Personally I'm happy to have survived "e Gauntlet", (and I'm still surviving daily as it is a never ending process). A large part of my job, and a very rewarding aspect, is teaching and mentoring. Having recognized "e Gauntlet" for what it is I can use it as a tool to help me teach. So for all you chef 's out there dealing with the low pay, long hours, lack of appreciation, stress, prima- donnas, HEAT and sweat, etc. are you going to put on your "game face" and accept that this is our reality? And appreciate that this is "e Gauntlet", our greatest teacher? Take comfort in the fact that we are an elite few to survive, "e Gauntlet" has tempered us to be the Chefs that we are today. It is "e nature of the Beast" of kitchens. And I for one, ere's no where else I'd rather be, it's my "Dharma". I'm reminded of the old saying, "If you can't stand the heat, get out of the kitchen". "For those about to cook, I salute you." I'm very curious to hear feedback and stories... P.S. e picture I've posted here is Circa 1982 when I was at cooking school. (still naive and unscarred by "e Gauntlet"). I chose this particular picture for Chef Michael Niksic's benet, (he likes pictures), take your best shot buddy, I'm ready to "Run the Gauntlet" :) Happy Cooking Everyone!