Cheers is dedicated to delivering hospitality professionals the information, insights and data necessary to drive their beverage business by covering trends and innovations in operations, merchandising, service and training.
Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/61309
El Jimador Blanco Tequila mixed with simple syrup and fresh lemon juice, while his best-selling I'm a King Bee cocktail includes Espolon Blanco infused with chamomile tea, honey syrup,lemon and basil. Moving beyond blanco, when Masa Azul's Kessler works with reposado in cocktails, she balances fl avors with "ruby red fruits," such as cherries, or even malbec wine. Her "Th e Smoking Jacket" features Casa Noble Reposado, malbec, sweet potato-avocado leaf puree and lemon with a smoked brown sugar and sea salt rim. At Mayahuel, Ward likes reposado with sweet vermouth. His Jet Stream cocktail has Pueblo Viejo Reposado, Bombay-Chai-infused sweet vermouth, orgeat, lemon and whiskey-barrel bitters. While Ward says añejo is more challenging to use in a cocktail because of the cost (most good añejos cost more than $40 a bottle) his Th e Last Straw Cobbler features Pueblo Viejo añejo—a tequila Ward calls the "blue collar Cadillac of the añejo world" along with strawberries, Velvet Falernum and aromatic bitters. Going further, some, such as Kessler—are mixing many agave-based spirits in one glass: Masa Azul's Tour de Mexico has Del Maguey "Santo Domingo" mezcal, Pueblo Viejo reposado, Hacienda de Chihuahua sotol Reposado (a tequila-like spirit made from the dessert spoon plant), 1881 pulque natural (agave wine), house-made limonada and agave nectar. BETTER WITH AGE Discussing where the tequila category is headed, several operators say extra-añejo tequilas (aged three years or more) are gaining in popularity. "Consumers are really latching on to extra añejos, drinking them in place of Cognac, fi ne brandies and fi ne whiskies," says Tad Carducci of Philadelphia-based Tippling Bros. Sirhal lists añejo and extra añejo tequilas on his dessert menus, "as you would Cognac." Started about a year ago, the dessert tequilas have garnered quite a bit of interest, says Sirhal. MEZCAL'S MOMENT Also exciting? Intertwined with the boom in tequila, mezcal—another agave-based spirit—is taking off . Compared with tequila which is made from blue agave, mezcal is made from any one of dozens of varieties of agave—some cultivated, some wild, some only available in one village. Because mezcal is made in a process that involves smoking the agave over rocks buried in underground pits, the spirit's fl avor is much stronger and smokier than tequila. In craft-cocktail circles, mezcal has become "a darling of bartenders," says Carducci. At Masa Azul, "Mezcal is our favorite spirit" says owner Lerner. "In the tequila family, it's like the crazy uncle, unexpected and unpredictable." Bartender Kessler says mezcal cocktails with big, bold fl avors have been the most popular: "Guests don't seem to want a "hold-your-hand" mezcal experience." Ward of Mayahuel agrees. "No spirit caters to spicy and MOVING FORWARD To keep the category moving forward, most operators say The Melo Picante at Mercat, is made with tequila, orange liquor, orange and lime juices and habanero simple syrup. it's important to continue training staff about tequila, and, to market the spirit. Several talk about off ering a featured "tequila of the night" (or, "of the week.") If the featured tequila is one that staff is less familiar with, the special gives them a chance to familiarize themselves. It can also help bring an under-promoted tequila back to server consciousness. "Tequila Tuesdays" at the Agave Tequila Bar in New York City work that way. "We always pick a brand that's less familiar, in order to get everybody on board with it," says Silverman. Promotions around fl ights, tequila clubs and dessert tequilas also help stoke tequila interest. "You really just want to give guests better understanding, new options and new reasons to try tequila, says Letayf at Lazaranda Mexican Seafood Grill, who has been promoting fl ights, and, just launched a Tequila Club with prizes. "Once they have that, it just grows," he concludes. savory cocktails better than mezcal. One of his most popular? Ron's Dodge Charger: Del Maguey Vida Joven Mezcal infused with Chile de Arbol and agave nectar, fresh lime and pineapple juice, shaken and served in an up glass with smoked-salt rim. www.cheersonline.com national publications & her vintage revival webzine www. lostrecipesfound.com The Cheers' handbooks are available at www.bevinfostore.com. APRIL 2012 | 25 Monica Kass Rogers writes about food and beverage for many