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Grapes Muscat plantings ON THE RISE M Increase in Washington acreage is minor compared to California plantings. by Melissa Hansen uscat grape varieties, the hottest selling wines in America, have also been the hottest selling grape nursery stock. And while there's been an uptick in Muscat plantings in Washington State, in general, the state's wine industry is taking a cautious approach to the latest wine fad. Inland Desert Nursery, Washington's largest commer- cial grape nursery, sold out their Muscat planting material in 2011 and 2012, reports Kevin Judkins, nursery man- ager. "Muscat has been the most widely planted grape in California the last two years," he said, but adds that orders are beginning to fall off for next year. "It was pretty hot but now seems to be cooling. A year ago, demand didn't seem like it was going to slow down anytime soon, but the Muscat sales surge might have already hit its peak." These Muscat of Alexandria vines on Snipes Mountain are nearly 100 years old and have been retrained about a dozen times after winter damage. Though Inland Desert, located in Benton City, had a banner year for Muscat sales, most planting material was sold out of state, Judkins said. Muscat varieties have been very popular in Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, and south- ern states. Texas growers alone have been buying 10,000 to 20,000 vines every year for some time. The Muscat varieties have also caught the attention of Midwest grape growers. Michigan State University researchers have been testing Muscat varieties in field tri- als. Paolo Sabbatini, MSU Extension, says the Moscato wine is the perfect wine for the American sweet tooth and could become a signature wine for Michigan. Cautious approach "But Washington growers have been pretty cautious in their planting, unlike other states," Judkins said. State acreage numbers bear out Judkins' assessment. The most 100 YEARS Because we offer the QUALITY you expect and deserve! recent Washington grape survey conducted by the National Agricultural Statistics Service, which represents acreage planted through 2010, reported 177 acres of Mus- cats planted in the state. Judkins believes that another 100 to 150 acres of Muscat grapes were planted during 2011 and 2012, based on the number of Muscat vines that Inland Desert sold to Washington growers over the last two years. That would nearly double the official estimate of Muscat acreage in the state to an unofficial estimate of around 300 acres, a significant number but nothing com- pared to California's 7,000 acres planted. "Our growers are hesitant to plant at the prices that the Muscat grapes for bulk wines in California are bringing," Judkins said. Prices paid to growers for Muscat grapes ranged from $390 to $750 per ton in 2011, according to the most recent California crush report. "If wineries have grape contracts to give out, Washing- ton growers would just as soon plant red varieties that are tried and true, have better pricing, and a stronger long- term outlook than jumping on the Muscat bandwagon," he added. Rick Hamman, viticulturist for Mercer Estates and Hogue Ranches, has only observed limited Muscat plant- ings in the state. He knows of a ten-acre block of Muscat Canelli planted in Horse Heaven Hills under contract for Hogue Cellars several years ago that's used for blending and Moscato-style wines, but he's not seen widespread new plantings. Hamman has a word of caution for growers interested or being pressured to plant "hot' varieties. "If you plant a variety that only a few wineries are interested in, you need to be prepared for when that variety goes 'south' and the wines are not as popular. If you lose your contract, who else will be interested in your grapes?" Even if the Muscat grapes are being used for blending, they impart a distinct flavor profile to the wines, a flavor that may be desired by only specific wineries. When mainstream varieties are planted, growers have more options of where to take their grapes if demand falls off for the niche wines, he said. "But that's not the case with niche varieties." Oldest Muscats Washington's oldest Muscat vineyard, planted in 1917, is still producing today, says Todd Newhouse of Outlook Vineyards. The 95-year-old Muscat of Alexandria vines, owned by the Newhouse family, are located on Snipes Mountain near Sunnyside. The next oldest in the state is a block of Muscat Hamburg, also owned by the Newhouse family, and was planted in the time frame of 1917 to 1950, and they planted Morio Muscat in 1979. Last year was the first time in several decades that Your Krymsk 5 & 6 Headquarters! ® 100 Years at Newcastle, Ca 800-675-6075 FowlerNurseries.com 34 JUNE 2012 GOOD FRUIT GROWER Muscat vines were again planted in Outlook Vineyards. Muscat Canelli, Orange Muscat, and Muscat Ottonel went in. But Newhouse said that their Muscat acreage is about 30 acres, just a small part of their hundreds of acres of grapes. "A fair amount of our Muscat ends up as Riesling wines," he said, explaining that the bulk of what's produced in the state is grown for blending purposes, though wineries also use the grapes to make off-dry, Muscat wines. www.goodfruit.com Photo by todd newhouse