Specialty Coffee Retailer is a publication for owners, managers and employees of retail outlets that sell specialty coffee. Its scope includes best sales practices, supplies, business trends and anything else to assist the small coffee retailer.
Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/96901
TOUGO COFFEE CO., Seattle, Wash. BY PAN DE METRAKAKES B rian Wells, owner of Tougo Coffee Co., turns to a reporter "It's daunting if you don't love what you're doing. But I do," with a smile after trading good-natured gibes with a patron. he says. "I am passionate about coffee and everything that coffee "We don't have customers. We have guests," Wells says. represents." He compares it to classical music: a coffeehouse is "And yes, I always sass my guests." "a place where you can bring people around something that's Tougo is in a mostly residential neighborhood in Seattle's so richly complex and subtle." Central District. The storefronts nearby are the New City A significant portion of the clientele is just as passionate about Theater and a used clothing store. The shop has a decidedly Tougo. When the shop hit a rough patch last year, customers informal vibe, with seating for about 25, long couch-benches passed the hat and raised thousands of dollars to keep it open. on either side of the door and a small bar in the corner crowded That show of loyalty got Tougo the title of "best-loved coffee with equipment, supplies and merchandise. shop" in a roundup by the Seattle Post-Intelligencer of the city's In the pre-election days, the most attention-getting décor 10 best cafés, but Wells is reluctant to talk about it; one senses was a pair of Obama posters on either side of the door, accented that the outpouring of affection embarrasses him a little. inside by Obama stickers on some of the equipment. Near the "It wasn't so much that we needed money that we needed back door, the lower half of the wall is a big chalkboard, and a support," Wells says. "You go through a dry spell, but you're bucket of colored chalk is there for any little Rembrandts that doing something you truly care about and truly love." might come in. Caitie O'Donnell has been a barista at Tougo for a little The shop has been open since 2007 (a second location over half a year. In a sign of the communal nature of the shop, closed about two years ago). It is named after Wells' son, whose O'Donnell has been known to fill in behind the counter of the name is a combination of the African nation of Togo and the clothing store next door when the proprietor is shorthanded. name of a Japanese admiral—the latter a nod to his mother's O'Donnell calls Tougo "like an extension of my living room. Japanese ancestry. It's truly awesome. These people are family to me. I love the "Our guests are from all walks of life," Wells says. "They are sense of community. I love that we get to work with all these Ph.D. holders, master's holders, doctors; there are individuals exceptional coffees." Those coffees come from all over the world, that don't have college degrees at all. Ninety-nine percent of and are supplied by some of the heavy hitters in the Seattle our guests come here because they have the same belief and roasting world: Stumptown, Ritual, Wrecking Ball and others. philosophy that our shop has, to build, promote and foster the Behind Tougo is one more charming touch: a narrow enjoyment of coffee." strip along a fence, towered over by a big bougainvillea. A Wells has been in the retail coffee business few people can sit out there in summer; since 1991. While he was living in Boston, he sometimes community groups hold small helped a friend open a Seattle-style coffeehouse. meetings there. Wells likes to rake the bed of OWNER: Brian Wells "It just felt like that's what I was supposed to be white stones underfoot when times are slow. doing," he says. He eventually came to Seattle "It's very contemplative," he says. SCR EQUIPMENT: La Marzocco Linea espresso and got into the business himself. machine So, what's it like opening a coffeehouse Tougo Coffee Co. Anfin Camino grinder in the middle of what is arguably America's 1410 18th Ave., Seattle, Wash. Mazzer grinder most caffeinated city? www.tuogocoffee.com Fetco batch brewer 34