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Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/123667
Vodka Variables Navigating the numerous options in America's most popular spirit category By Robert Plotkin I n a country that loves throaty V-8 engines, spicy barbeque and bone-crunching sports, how did a spirit as delicate and nuanced as vodka so thoroughly dominate the limelight? For most consumers, the draw of vodka is its purity, for others it's the spirit's enormous diversity. While some vodkas are gloriously neutral, others are profoundly personable and laced with flavor. Whatever the exact reason, these are the best of times for vodka enthusiasts. According to Cheers' parent company Beverage Information Group, vodka sales were up 5.6% in 2012, reaching 70.2 million 9-liter cases. It now accounts for 34.1% of all spirits sold in the U.S. The spirit's steadily increasing popularity means that a stream of innovative new brands will continue to hit the market. Uncovering the gems among the multitude of vodkas can be daunting, however. The largest gene pool is comprised of neutral vodkas—those without color, odor or taste. At first glance their transparency and apparent lack of character may be misleading. The allure is primarily cerebral, for drinking something essentially pure is like sipping on cool mountain mist. Achieving that effect is extraordinarily challenging. Aging spirits in wood can mask flaws and blemishes; not so with vodka. No other spirit exposes its shortcomings like vodka. Alone in the glass, stripped of its packaging, marketing and hype, neutral vodka is an open book. That doesn't necessarily make it easier to choose from the many vodkas now available. STOCKING THE BAR SHELVES "Especially considering the great influx of new brands on the market, developing a strategy for what vodka brands to stock and how many is paramount for beverage operators," says Mac www.cheersonline.com Gregory, director of beverage for Starwood Hotels. As is the case with many bar and restaurant operators, vodka is the dominant force behind Starwood's beverage program, he says. The vodkas Starwood has selected for its bars were chosen for specific reasons, Gregory says, the same as would be applied to wines on a wine list. "Each vodka balances the portfolio and has been selected to offer an enhancement to the overall beverage program, as well as another experience for our guests." The criteria used to select which vodkas to stock on the back bar will vary between establishments based on locale, size and type of operation, Gregory notes. But there are other factors that should always apply. The first universal rule, says Phil Raimondo, national accounts manager at Beam Global Spirits and Wines, is to consider your bar's physical limitations. "No operator works with an unlimited amount of back-bar shelving. In fact, each linear foot represents 'high-rent' marketing space," he notes. Back bars are already cluttered enough, Raimondo says. "So the first step is to determine how many brands you can effectively market, and offer vodkas that you think your staff can sell. If you cannot sell a bottle in a week's time, you probably shouldn't carry that particular brand or flavor." Beverage consultant Willy Shine, founder and director of Will Shine Inc., believes today's vodka consumers are savvy and well versed on the differences between the major brands. So it's important to market a balanced offering of vodkas from different countries and base ingredients, he says. For example, "some consumers are devotees of Polish rye vodkas or Russian vodkas made from winter wheat," Shine says. "Ensure that your vodka roster represents a balanced mix of types and countries of origins. I also take into consideration whether there are local ambassadors and sales people who are willing to MAY 2013 | 27