Vineyard & Winery Management

November/December 2013

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EAST COAST WATCH MARGUERITE THOMAS ies are honest about where they source their fruit, if they depend too much on the practice they may be not only undermining their state or region's identity, but also inadvertently sabotaging the quality of their own wine. "After all, if you're growing great grapes in Napa, you aren't going to export them to Ohio," Winchell pointed out. Another thing to consider is that purchasing grapes from other states has the potential to seriously impair local viticulture, and several grapegrowers in the Midwest and East have complained that importation can be devastating to regional growers. I asked Carlo DeVito, owner of Hudson-Chatham Winery in New York's Hudson Valley, if honesty is the best policy when it comes to communicating on the label where the grapes or other fruit were grown. He considered the question carefully before responding. "Hudson-Chatham focuses on being made from all New York state fruit," he said. "In the Hudson Valley there's not always enough fruit, but we can get copious amounts of varieties like riesling or merlot from the Finger Lakes and Long Island, respectively. I try not to judge others by whose fruit they use, but I do prefer people to be honest. If it's California fruit, let me know. If it's some other state's, let me know. I believe in transparency. I prefer that you tell me whether the wine is made from local or out-of-state grapes. Tell me percentages. Don't use the generic 'American' on the label – just tell me where the fruit comes from." When I asked DeVito if he thinks the average consumer understands the complexity of labeling references to the origins of fruit or juice, he said: "I don't think the average or casual drinker understands the technicalities of label restrictions – Zyme-O-Enzymes Bioferm & Springcell Red Star & Springer Yeast Color Tan & Querca Tan Range Heinrich Oak Chips, Powder & Staves but wine people do. Why not just be honest?" Marguerite Thomas is a Bal- timore-based journalist and photographer who contributes wine-related articles to several national and international publications. She is the author of the books "Wineries of the Eastern States" and "Visiting East Coast Wineries." Comments? Please e-mail us at feedback@vwmmedia.com. visit us online vwmmedia.com Proud to offer BECO DE FREE Filter Sheets & Pads Padovan and Filtration Systems Malo Plus, HA, D, & Multi Bacteria BECO Filter Sheets & Pads Parsec Micro-Oxygenation Systems Stoltzle Crystal Stemware Your Wine Filtration Experts Bartlett Press Membranes Padovan Filtration Systems Cellar Supplies & Fining Agents Check out our website or call us for more information! American Tartaric Products, Inc. 1230 Shiloh Road, Windsor CA 95492 (707) 836-6840 www.americantartaric.com w w w. v w m m e d i a.com N ov - D ec 2013 | V INE YA RD & W INE RY M A N A G EM EN T 31

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