Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/197178
"That would appeal to somebody who enjoys sweet wine." Most small, independent breweries start with draft beer and consider adding a bottling line as they expand. If your chief audience is wine country visitors, you may not want to deal with bottling and wide distribution right off the bat. BEER SCHOOL In addition to building a brewery, there's the matter of sourcing talent. For the Ceja family, the brewing bug was homegrown. Jesus Ceja's beer education took him from the UC Davis brewing program to an internship at Adolph Coors in Golden, Colo. "I started learning the quality principles, the analysis, packaging, marketing," he said. Then Ceja joined Anheuser-Busch, working his way up to senior assistant brewmaster before moving home to make his brewery dream a reality. At Wagner, the brewery addition required hiring a brewmaster. Wojnowski, an Ithaca native, originally went to school for psychology but started home brewing and quickly developed a passion for it. Apprenticeships at two San Francisco breweries cemented his love of brewing and honed his skills. Wojnowski moved back to the Finger Lakes in 2011 to start at Wagner as assistant brewer, then became brewmaster in June 2012. "It's not uncommon for guys to help me bottle and then go to the tasting room to work there," Wojnowski said. "I joke that it's 'brewing on the farm,' and we really are. The vineyard guys will often come by and help brew when they can." Although Roller said the brewery is humming with appreciative tasters on weekends, the brewery is the smaller contributor to Wagner's overall business. "We are working to push the beer brand and get the recognition there," Roller said. "When it comes to vinifera wines, we've been getting more accolades every year; I would like to see the brewery get more visibility because the quality is there." For wineries interested in turning their site into a destination, adding a brewery may be well worth the effort. Guests craving beer's palate-cleansing carbonation and refreshing taste are certain to appreciate the offering, but don't be surprised if the art of brewing creeps under your skin, too. Ceja's love of brewing comes through as he talks, and it's clear that he's happy with the direction his family's business has taken. "My ultimate dream was to come back home to Napa and Carneros to do a little brewery with my brothers," he said, "and that's where we are." Julia Burke has worked in vari- Brent Wojnowski of Wagner Valley Brewing Co. honed his brewing skills through apprenticeships at two San Francisco breweries. Photo: Stu Gallagher Photography w w w. v w m m e d i a.com ous aspects of the wine industry, including harvest and sales positions, since 2008. She was the beer editor for the New York Cork Report from 2009 to 2012, and today writes for various publications about craft beer, wine and food. Comments? Please e-mail us at feedback@vwmmedia.com. N ov - D ec 2013 | V INE YA RD & W INE RY M A N A G EM EN T 85