PHOTO COURTESY OF HAHN FAMILY VINEYARDS
Over the next 50 years, we
To hear a number of Kiwi
think this will grow as the
winemakers talk about it
other (denser) styles shrink a
today, this style is under
little bit."
attack.
When Kendall-Jackson's
"Throughout New Zealand,
research showed that this was
winemakers are lightening up
a valid idea, there was one
on their wines and making
major concern of the K-J
them more fruit-driven," said
marketing department: "Is it
Simon Nunns, wine maker for
going to cannibalize our other
Coopers Creek Vineyard in
products? Well it didn't," said
Kumeu on New Zealand's
Ullom. "We did research in
north island. "We are seeing
six markets and didn't come
less of the sulfide-y style of
up with much of a variance.
Chardonnay and more fruitAt least not enough to wardriven wines."
rant saying that it's good for only for this market and not
"Consumers are asking for more fruit, so we [wine
that one."
makers] have to respond to that demand."
Bonne of the Chronicle noted, "I think we're comStyles Still Changing
ing back to wines that have relevance to a longer winehe styles of chardonnay are changing to the more making tradition, and part of that is recognizing the
elegant in many areas of the southern hemisphere specificity of place.
as well, due to a parallel movement. In New
"Not every winemaker will do that," but some wines
Zealand, where Chardonnay is a significant varietal wine are being made to revert to an earlier era of winemaking
for both domestic and international sales, a popular style that was "more equitable in terms of fruit."
had been the one wine makers call sulfide-y. This aroma
He acknowledged the huge base of Baby Boomers
has a lot of lees contact and challenges the consumer to still out there, wine lovers who remain major wine buyers.
confront some distinctively "reduced" aromas, such as
"But wineries have to be cognizant also of the younger
sulfur dioxide and faint elements of oxidation.
buyers [who] want blended reds without a lot of tannin or
This style of wine became a huge success with many oak presence, lighter and more elegant chardonnays, and
wineries in New Zealand and numerous wine makers many other wines. One would have to be crazy not to lisadopted this more complex style of Chardonnay.
ten to what's happening in the market."
I
T
PHOTO COURTESY OF KENDALL-JACKSON WINERY, SANTA ROSA, CA
Jackson Estate
Camelot Highlands
vineyard in Santa
Maria Valley.
Beverage Dynamics • www.beveragedynamics.com • January/February 2014 • 35
