Beverage Dynamics is the largest national business magazine devoted exclusively to the needs of off-premise beverage alcohol retailers, from single liquor stores to big box chains, through coverage of the latest trends in wine, beer and spirits.
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Provence is one of the most famous regions for producing rosé wines. Here are a few favorites, including rosés from Château D’Esclans, Château de Saint-Martin, Domaine de Brigue, Domaine Sorin and Mas de Cadenet, “Arbaude.” However, a backlash took place among “serious” wine drinkers, many of whom believed that all rosé wines were sweet and sappy (never true), and avoided them. Rosé wines’ soiled reputation never really hap- pened to wine drinkers in many countries in Europe— such as France, Spain, and Italy—where dry or fairly dry rosés have been part of these countries’ wine repertoire for decades. Now, in the U.S., there has been a rosé resurgence. For example, a just-released Nielsen study notes that U.S. retail sales of imported rosés priced at or above $12 a bottle increased 22.3% in dollar volume and 17.7% in sales volume in 2010. Here’s a brief dxescription of some of the major rosé-growing regions and an admittedly subjective list- ing of many of my favorite rosés from these areas. France R osés are a popularly established wine in France more than in any other country. Although some rosé wines are made in most French wine regions, they are really important in four: Provence, the southern Rhône, Languedoc-Roussillon, and the Anjou district of the Loire Valley. Note that the first three of these four regions are in southern France, where it’s sunny and warm for a good part of the year. This makes sense, because rosé wines go hand and hand with mild climates. Provence is one of the few major wine regions in the world in which rosé wines make up more than half of the wine production. Provence is the perfect venue for rosés. Not only is the climate right, but the cuisine fits perfectly: fish, seafood, and fresh vegetables pre- dominate. The main grape varieties in Provence rosés are Grenache, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre. Most of Provence’s rosé wines come from its largest region, Côtes de Provence, and most retail in the $12 to $24 price range. Ubifrance, the French trade commission, recently reported that exports of rosé and red wines to the U.S. from Provence jumped nearly 50% by value and more than 37% by volume from October 2009 to October 2010. This represents a rise in value 10 times greater than that of total French wine exports in the same period – confirming the rising appeal of the Provence region’s rosé wines for U.S. consumers. And although the data includes red wines, the reality underlines the strength of rosés: “In 2010, 87% of all AOC wines produced in Provence were rosés, while 9% were reds and 4% whites,” said Julie Peterson of the CIVP/Provence Wine Council’s U.S. trade office. Here are some of my favorite Provence rosés (all come from Côtes de Provence, except when noted otherwise): Château D’Esclans (Domaines Sacha Lichine) Château de Saint-Martin Domaine de Brigue “Signature” Domaine de La Sanglière Domaines Ott (Bandol) Domaines Ott, Château de Selle Domaine Sorin Mas de Cadenet, “Arbaude” Château Marqui (Côteaux Varois en Provence) Château Les Valentines Château Maupague Château Sainte Roseline Château Robine 62 • Beverage Dynamics • www.beveragedynamics.com • March/April 2011