www.cheersonline.com
31
APRIL 2014
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modern ingredients and techniques, he says. "e cocktail
program has been placed in the kitchen because of the chefs'
understanding of the techniques and sanitary environment in
the kitchen."
Vacuum sealers have become kitchen staples, as chefs turn to
compression, infusion or sous vide to coax out avor and texture
from a food. For its Open Sesame cocktail ($14), Restaurant
Kelly Liken in Vail, CO, uses a vacuum sealer to infuse sesame
seeds into compressed pears. e pears are then macerated with
Leopold's Silver Tree vodka, added to fresh ginger and lime,
and served on the rocks.
"By integrating [molecular mixology] into a traditional
program, you can enhance the avors, textures and overall
composition of the drinks, bringing new and exciting elements
to the cocktail program," notes Ian Tulk, bartender at the 68-
seat seasonal and locally focused restaurant.
But less is more with molecular mixology, says Tulk. He limits
drinks to three or four ingredients instead of say, 10. "Too many
ingredients or steps often backre, and you lose the integrity of
the individual avors," he says.
KEEP IT REAL
No matter the technique employed, molecular mixology
needs to be presented to the guest in an approachable, rather
than esoteric or pretentious way. "Invite them to share in
[your] 'geeky' adventure as opposed to ostracizing them,"
cautions Tello.
And timing is a denite consideration—especially in busy
bars. "It is important to nd a balance between complexity and
drink prep times," Casey says. "A bar can use all the tricks in the
book, but if it takes 30 minutes to get [the drink], who cares?"
e Aviary's Melton is always careful to make a distinction
between molecular mixology techniques that add to the drink,
vs. those done for their own sake. "People think it is all about
show," he notes. "It really needs to impact avor, texture or
aroma in order to be used. And at the end of the day, the drink
needs to taste good."
Coronado agrees. "Molecular mixology is not just smoke and
mirrors; it has to benet the cocktail," he says.
Above all, cocktails need to seamlessly t in with a beverage
program, exist for the pleasure and enjoyment of those patrons
who seek it, and have a clear purpose in a drink.
"As with anything cocktail-related," notes Smith, "if the core
idea or inspiration isn't authentic, no amount of Mr. Wizardry
can save it."
Kelly Magyarics is a wine and spirits write and wine educator
in the Washington, D.C. area. She can be reached through her
email, kmagyarics@gmail.com, or on Twitter or Instagram @
kmagyarics.
Molecular cocktail creations from The Aviary: On the Wire (left) made with Bonal, graham cracker, Benedictine, apple brandy cognac; and
Insane in the Membrillo (right), with ginger, almond, burnt sage, rose petals, sherry, quince and gin.
28-31 molecular mixology CH0414.indd 31 4/4/2014 11:22:51 AM
