Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/402796
w w w. v w m m e d i a . c o m N o v - D e c 2 014 | V I N E YA R D & W I N E RY M A N A G E M E N T 7 3 tive attribute by California wine critics. Even the slight- est hint of mint, it seems, can cost a wine valuable points, and most winemakers just don't want to go there. It's also true that ferment- ing grapes with all stems intact can be viewed as lazi- ness and/or a lack of sophis- ticated destemmers in Old World Burgundy, as much as a belief that the tech- nique ultimately made a better-tasting wine. As California pinot noir is becoming increasingly refined, more and more winemakers appear to be experimenting with including at least some stems in their fermen- tations. Some of them are making very exciting wines, including Steve t's safe to say that the idea of including stems in pinot noir ferments scares the bejeezus out of most Cali- fornia winemakers, but it's also true that stem inclusion and whole-berry fermentation experiments have been bub- bling for some time. Some U.S. winemakers, seeking to make more ageworthy pinot noirs, are looking to Burgundy for inspiration and sometimes includ- ing some whole clusters with stems in their fer- mentations. For decades, "green" or vegetal flavors have been viewed as a nega- + Inclusion of stems in pinot noir fermentation can add structure and flavor com- plexity. + Making sure some of the berries are at least gently crushed can prevent grapey and green carbonic flavors. + Only a small portion of the stem ever lignifies and turns brown. + Gentle steaming of the stems can temper aggres- sive green qualities. + Wash stems before roasting them to avoid caramelizing grape sugars. AT A GLANCE The WALT pinot noir is fermented with stems that have been steamed in a chile roaster. BY TIM TEICHGRAEBER WALT winemaker takes creative approach for pinot noir Fermenting with Stems