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4 V I N E YA R D & W I N E RY M A N A G E M E N T M A R - A P R 2 0 12 W W W. V W M - O N L I N E . C O M MARCH - APRIL 2012 VOL.38 NO.2 WWW.VWM-ONLINE.COM Battling Botrytis is a year- round effort. page 42 Sheep are useful for more than just mowing. page 46 Eric Asimov has a lot on his plate. page 90 Vineyard & Winery Manage- ment (ISSN 1047-4951) is published bimonthly by Vine- yard & Winery Services, Inc. Business office is located at 421 E Street, Santa Rosa, CA 95404. Tel: (707) 577-7700. Robert Merletti, president and publisher. Cover and contents are copyright protected © 2009. Unauthorized duplication prohibited. Periodical Postage Paid at Santa Rosa, CA and additional mailing offices. Post- master: Please send Form 3579 to Vineyard & Winery Manage- ment, Box 14459, Santa Rosa, CA 95402-6459. The wine ring is a copyrighted device of Vineyard & Winery Management. FEATURES 36 Cover Story: Kosta Browne Winery Rises to the Top The Sonoma County producer's long road to overnight success. By Ben Narasin VINEYARD & WINERY 42 Preventing Powdery Mildew and Botrytis Strategies for developing an effective program. By Remi Cohen 46 Sheep in the Vineyards Wooly workers assist with North Coast vineyard management. By Glenn McGourty 52 Pinot Noir in the Finger Lakes Vintners turn their attention from the temperamental grape to more promising varieties. By David Falchek 58 Sweet Success North Carolina muscadines satisfy Southern palates. By Linda Murphy MANAGEMENT 64 Grape Contract Provisions Growers need to protect themselves in uncertain times. By Dean Gloster and Matt Lewis 68 Fuel Cells for Wine Industry Applications Sonoma vineyard operation taps into an efficient, eco-friendly power source. By Ted Rieger 76 Wineries Unlimited 2012 Preview The East's largest and longest-running trade show returns to Virginia March 27-29. By David Falchek 90 Q&A: Eric Asimov New York Times wine critic balances columns, blogging and books. By Tina Caputo ON THE COVER (WEST): Kosta Browne founders Dan Kosta (left) and Michael Browne turned their tip money into a multi-million-dollar wine brand. Photo: Robyn Twomey, www. robyntwomey.com. KOSTA BROWNE Rises to the Top Oak Adjuncts Preventing Powdery Mildew Off-Premise Trends MARCH - APRIL 2012 WWW.VWM-ONLINE.COM NORTH AMERICA'S LEADING INDEPENDENT WINE TRADE PUBLICATION ON THE COVER (EAST): The Wineries Unlimited conference and trade show returns to Rich- mond, Va., March 27-29. 2012 Virginia is for Wine Lovers! Virginia is for Wine Lovers! Virginia is for Wine Lovers! 36 th year 36 th year 36 th year Preview Oak Adjuncts Kosta Browne Rises to the Top Off-Premise Trends MARCH - APRIL 2012 WWW.VWM-ONLINE.COM NORTH AMERICA'S LEADING INDEPENDENT WINE TRADE PUBLICATION