Beverage Dynamics

Beverage Dynamics Sept-Oct 2014

Beverage Dynamics is the largest national business magazine devoted exclusively to the needs of off-premise beverage alcohol retailers, from single liquor stores to big box chains, through coverage of the latest trends in wine, beer and spirits.

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There are 10 main wine regions, which contain 18 smaller Protected De- nominations of Origin (PDOs), but the majority of wineries and growers are in the Kakheti Valley, very close to Tbilisi. Going from east to west, you will pass through Imereti and other central and western wine regions. Summers are hot, but spring or fall are perfect times to visit. Your fi rst stop will be Tbilisi, and once there, you should go to the Vino Under- ground Wine Bar, which has the largest selection of organic and/or 'bio' Geor- gian wines. Also go to the Azarpesha Wine Restaurant, named for a long-han- dled drinking bowl, for a traditional meal. You may meet partner and ex-pat Amer- ican John Wurdeman in either place. He is an articulate moving force in reclaim- ing Georgian traditions in wine, food, polyphonic music and dance, and is also the founder of Pheasant's Tears Winery. ALL ABOUT QVEVRIS Wine has been traditionally fermented and aged in qvevris, or large clay pots that are bur- ied in the earth. They are shaped something like Roman amphorae, but the amphorae re- main above ground. When people buy older houses, it is not unusual to lift up the fl oor- boards and fi nd buried qvevris below. Many winemakers are using qvevris now, though some do use stainless steel or oak barrels, and some use both. To learn about qvevris, you should not miss a visit to Twins Old Cellar in Napareuli Village in the Telavi district. I dubbed it 'Qvevri School.' The twin brothers have set up an oversized qvevri display to honor their parents. Previously, the Soviets had taken over their winery, and their father died in prison. The property was eventually returned. They have made an outdoor room-sized qvevri, reached by a ladder. Once inside, you feel as if you are standing in an enormous qvevri. The clay walls are marked showing levels of internal activity as a wine ages and solids reach the bottom of this curve-sided vessel. The twins have 107 qvevris in use, restoring a tradition that was almost lost. [Note: Besides creating a wine museum, they also have a dozen guest rooms, should you decide to visit and stay over.] With renewed interest in ovoid, clay fermenters, some qvevris are being pro- duced in the United States. A Texan, Billy Ray Mangham of Sleeping Dog Pottery and his team, have a 'Qvevri Project.' Andrew Beckham, a potter and winemaker in Or- egon has his own 'Amphorae Project.' Also, a potter on the outskirts of Austria is now making qveris. Further, there is increased experimentation with 'the concrete egg' — concrete egg-shaped tanks made in Bur- gundy. The Emiliana Vineyards, from Chile, has made a very big investment in them for their winery in Casablanca. Among other sites, concrete eggs are used in the Glenora Winery, the first Farm Winery in the Finger Lakes, NY. In 2013, UNESCO recognized qvevris and qvevri-winemaking, and placed them on the 'Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.' Qvevris last for a very long time. They are not discarded when they are no longer useful, but are re- spectfully leaned against garden walls. BD HARRIET LEMBECK, CWE*, CSS** hlembeck@mindspring.com is a prominent wine and spirits educator. She is president of the re- nowned Wine & Spirits Program, and revised and updated the textbook Grossman's Guide to Wines, Beers and Spirits. She was the Director of the Wine Department for The New School University for 18 years. (*Certifi ed Wine Educator, **Certifi ed Specialist of Spirits) Retail EDUCATION TIPS FOR A SUCCESSFUL TRIP Wines that I admired en route included: • Tsoliskouori 'Lime Rock' white, Imareti region • Château Mukhrani red Shavkapito, Kartli Region • Alaverdi Monastery Cellar (11th C.) red Saperavi 2011, Kakheti Region • Khareba Winery Otskhanuri Sapere, Imereti Region • Kindzmarauli Wine Cellar Marani, Kakheti Region • Shumi Winery red Saperavi 2008, Tsinandali PDO, Kakheti Region • Schuchman's Winery white Rkatsiteli 2013, Tsinandali PDO, Kakheti • Pheasant's Tears Winery white Rkatsiteli 2011, Kakheti Region • Bagratoni Rosé Brut 2010 Sparkling Wine, Traditional Method, Imereti • Winiveria Gianniani Chacha (Saperavi Grape Vodka), Kakheti Region • Sarajishvili VSOP Wine Brandy, 8-10 years old, blend of Regions Before you go, for good preparation, read: • Georgia, Sakartvelo: The Birthplace of Wine by Terry and Kathy Sullivan; Infi nity Publishing; 877-BUY BOOK; http://birthplace- ofwine.winetrailtraveler.com • Skin Contact by Alice Feiring; distributed by the National Wine Agency of Georgia Be sure to contact Tamta Kvelaidze, Regional Manager, Marketing Dept., National Wine Agency of Georgia, at tamtakvelaidze@ gmail.com. And for the names of US importers of Georgian wines, please write to me at h.lembeck@wineandspiritsprogram.com. 12 Beverage Dynamics • September/October 2014 www.beveragedynamics.com Wine Cellar (marani) at11th C. Alaverdi Monastery in Kakheti, with qvevris waiting for the harvest. Slate covers are leaning against the wall. Modern wines produced there are sold under the 1011 Label. PHOTO BY TERRY SULLIVAN

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