Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/401644
I nnovation at Columbia Crest and Canoe Ridge Estate wineries is not limited to upgrades at their grape receiving stations. Winemakers also are using an array of vessels for fermentation as they push the envelope to improve quality. At Columbia Crest, tanks and fermentation ves- sels in nearly all shapes and sizes are used, from Italian-made clay vessels to concrete square and egg-shaped tanks to conical-shaped tanks made from oak or stainless steel. Red grapes are even fer- mented in oak barrels normally used for storage but with specially designed metal lids that allow grape skins to be removed. Canoe Ridge Estates also uses a variety of small fermenting vessels in its red reserve program. Juan Muñoz-Oca, head winemaker at Columbia Crest, said that extensive research has helped the winemaking team identify which grape variety— even down to specific lots—does best in the differ- ent type of vessels. "In fermentation, size and shape matter and can change the outcome of the wine," said Muñoz-Oca. "Using different vessels gives me different control in the fermentation process." Conical-shaped tanks for red grapes keep the cap submerged and better extract tannins, he said. But for white wines, like Viognier, the terra cotta amphora, a large clay jar fermenter, helps add floral tones to the wines. He uses an egg-shaped, concrete tank for unoaked Chardonnay from their estate vineyard. The egg holds about 500 gallons and allows solids in the fermenting juice to slide down the sides nat- urally, similar to stirring the juice. Square concrete tanks, which cannot be thoroughly sanitized, are used for grapes from the same vineyard (Coyote Canyon Vineyard owned by Mike Andrews) year after year. By using the tank for the same grapes, he has continuity with the grape micro flora and native yeasts. The freedom to use different fermentation vessels helps keep the creative juices flowing, said Muñoz-Oca. "Our large size allows us to do things that smaller wineries might not be able to as we seek to improve wine quality. We're always looking for ways to innovate." Columbia Crest produces about 1 million cases of wine annually and crushed around 18,000 tons during the 2014 harvest. Though numbers aren't finalized yet, Washington grape growers are expecting the largest crop ever. The industry estimated pre-season that some 230,000 tons would be harvested this year. Raymon McKee, winemaker at Canoe Ridge Estate, considers the array of fermentation ves- sels and tanks as important tools to improve wine quality. Depending on the vessel used, wines can be more vibrant or more structured. "It all adds to the complexity that we are trying to create in our wines." Canoe Ridge Estate will have available for sale around 800,000 cases this year. Both Columbia Crest and Canoe Ridge Estate are part of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, Washington's largest wine company. Ste. Michelle uses about two thirds of all the grapes grown in the state and owns about 3,500 acres of vineyards. Other Washington wineries in the Ste. Michelle family include Col Solare, North Star, Spring Valley Vineyard, and Chateau Ste. Michelle, among others. • Columbia Crest Winery uses about 50 specially made oak wine barrels for fermentation in its red reserve wine cellar. The metal lid allows grape skins to be removed. A concrete egg-shaped fermenter is used for un-oaked Chardonnay at Columbia Crest Winery. All shapes and sizes Fermentation vessels help improve wine quality. by Melissa Hansen PHOTO BY MELISSA HANSEN PHOTOS BY MELISSA HANSEN www.goodfruit.com GOOD FRUIT GROWER NOVEMBER 2014 29 Columbia Crest Winery head winemaker Juan Muñoz-Oca holds a sample in his left hand of the near perfect grapes that have been sorted and will be made into wine next to the rejected grapes in his right hand. At far left, Muñoz-Oca stands near the optical sorting machine situated on Columbia Crest Winery's red reserve crush pad. A new optical sorting machine was in place for the 2014 crush at Canoe Ridge Estates Winery. PHOTO COURTESY CANOE RIDGE ESTATES WINERY PHOTO COURTESY COLUMBIA CREST WINERY "In fermentation, size and shape matter and can change the outcome of the wine." —Juan Muñoz-Oca Grapes