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Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/51774
In Portland cocktails produced by consultants Brewing Up Cocktails such as the Lovers Quarrel, made with gin and St. Germaine; and the Hot Scotchy, made by with hot wort, are both popular. the beer cocktails are solid performers, says bartender Katipai Richardson-Wilson. "About 20 percent of the overall cocktail sales are from the beer cocktails, which says that it's more widely accepted, both by women and men." Also in New York, the Vandaag restaurant and bar features several seasonal beer cocktails, including the Vandaag, a blend of Bols Genever with a syrup made from saison ale, bitters, kirschwasser and a touch of absinthe, priced at $13. Made from distilled rye, corn and wheat, genever is infused with botanicals such as juniper berries, anise seed and hops, a natural match for the saison's herbal hops profi le. Vandaag, dubbed a "bierrestaurantbakery," off ers fresh-baked Scandinavian breads and pastries, Dutch spirits and Nordic cuisine. Martin Smith- Mattsson, beverage director, presents a $13 drink, the Dutch Medicine Cocktail made with genever, Scotch, ginger syrup, lemon juice and honey syrup—with rauchbier fl oated atop— named in homage to the traditional Penicillin Cocktail. SEASONAL FACTORS Temperature too plays a role in presentation. Hot beer can be the base for a real Wassail or toddy-like concoction. Portland's Jacob Grier created a Hot Scotchy for the Hop & Vine, a toddy prepared with hot wort, the result of cooking cracked barley malt in hot water, and straining the sweet grainy mash to separate the spent grain from the wort (hot liquid). Grier then blends the fresh, hot wort with a touch of cream and dram of Talisker, for a malty, warming drink that is both comforting and chest- thumping ($7). Th e Wassail, a hot cocktail featuring Deschutes Brewery's Jubelale Winter Ale, is steeped with roasted apples, rye whiskey, sherry and spices. Inspiration for mixing a beer cocktail can be found in changing seasons, such as the wintery Wassail, special events, or even history. At Bryant's Lounge in Milwaukee, the iconic 73-year old bar features more then 450 cocktails-but just one uses craft beer. Th e anniversary of an historic British beer fl ood inspired 34 | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012 In Denver last July, dozens of fans of craft beer cocktails gathered at Star Bar to enjoy drinks such as the Sacrament of Q, made with Malt infused CapRock Vodka, Avery Reverend Avery Hog Heaven and Avery Salvation Foam. bartender Katie Rose to create "Th e Last Call to Porter," a blend of Knob Creek Bourbon, green chartreuse and Benedictine, fi nished with a splash of Central Waters Brewing Co.'s Mud Puppy Porter Ale, sold at $8 (and featured on NPR in 2010). Other drivers to the beer cocktail are the many breweries also turning to distilling, led by Anchor Brewing Co. of San Francisco and its spirits division established in 1993, featuring Old Potrero Whiskey and Junipero Gin. Oregon's Rogue opened its spirits division in 2003, with small-batch rums, pink gin, spruce gin and whiskies; and since then, each of its 15 brewpubs have featured a monthly beer cocktail. Sebbie Buhler, the muse behind Rogue Ales Chocolate Stout, says, "Th ere are many ways to create fun beer cocktails, but I wanted to take it to the next level and make my own signature blend for Valentines Day." She mixed an ounce of Rogue Hazelnut Rum, with a half-ounce sherry and six ounces of Chocolate Stout: a sweet treat for any Rogue who goes nutty for beer cocktails with fl avor and style. Lucy Saunders is a Milwaukee-based freelance writer, specializing in craft beer. www.cheersonline.com SEAN M. BUCHAN, BREWING UP COCKTAILS