The steep vineyards of Riesling in Germany's Mosel. By Jack Robertiello
If you are above a certain age, you likely even swilled your share, at rock concerts or in college dorms, explaining to your friends how much cooler than Boone's Farm the sweetish wine was. The dam- age branded versions of these mass-market sweet wines did in the U.S. to the reputation of German producers in general and Riesling in particular is incalculable, but luckily today, most wine drinkers are clean slates, untainted by the excesses of a confused market 40 years ago.
R "There are two new consumers of Riesling today,"
says Terry Thiese, self described Riesling geek and the man who almost single-handedly has driven the aware- ness of fine German Rieslings in the U.S. through the producers he imports, distributed by Michael Skurnik Wines. "One are the young wine drinkers who haven't been corrupted with the false idea that Riesling is uncool, who are just following their spontaneous prefer- ences, who taste the wines and find they like them. The other is a gentleman like me in mid- to late-middle age, for whom the coarser pleasures of wine have ceased to entertain us and is looking for something quieter and lovelier and Riesling steps right up."
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emember Liebfraumilch? You should probably forget about it.
PHOTO COURTESY OF THE GERMAN WINE INSTITUTE
Since Millenials form such an important component of the current core wine drinker, their lack or prejudice is good news, says Jan Barnes, vice president of marketing for Chateau Ste. Michelle, which produces eight different Washington Riesling styles, including one in partnership with German legend Ernst Loosen. "Anecdotally, when you talk with younger wine drinkers in focus groups or in general they don't carry any baggage from the Blue Nun - Black Tower days, and they're not opposed to sweeter wines. They'll drink across many varietals and that's pretty exciting for us as Riesling producers." Much of the attention Riesling, whether from the Old or New Worlds, receives these days is based on its stellar reputation as a sommelier's favorite, a multifac- eted food wine that, depending on its quality and style, can work its way through a meal from amuse bouche to desert. It's well known for its ability to enhance spicy and Asian cuisines, and is often low alcohol as well, making it a quaffable option for those not disposed to higher alcohol whites.
Still, Riesling sales, which underwent a boomlet in the past few years, have slowed slightly, falling short of 2011's overall wine growth of 4.7% as reported by the Wine Market Council in January. The varietal still posted an almost 2% increase to maintain its 2% share of the overall market. Additionally, its per bottle average price is fifth highest at $7.86.
StateWays s www.stateways.com s March/April 2012
