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Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/725097
www.cheersonline.com 24 • September 2016 SEEING THE LIGHT What's driving the low-alcohol cocktail trend? For one thing, "The era of the three-Martini lunch is long gone," says Bryan Dayton, co-owner and beverage manager of the Oak at Fourteenth and Acorn restaurants in Boulder, CO. Oak at Fourteenth's Libations menu is arranged by ABV, with sections labeled No Alcohol, Low Alcohol Oceana, a fi ne-dining seafood house in New York, calls out "Low Alcohol" in a section of its signature cocktails. The 1st Tuesday in November cocktail at Acorn restau- rant in Boulder, CO, made with Vergano Americano, Aperol, Punt e Mes and Cocktail Punk orange bitters. The Beet Salad at Seattle's Heartwood Provisions is paired with a cocktail made with blanco tequila, Meletti 1870 Bitter, Dolin Blanc, honey and lime. and High Alcohol. "That way guests can see the options spelled out and make their own choices," explains Dayton. Moderation in alcohol consumption and health-consciousness are fueling interest in low-octane drinks, he says. And while customers might indulge in higher-alcohol drinks on the weekends, they often select low-proof options during the week when they have to get up the next morning to go to work. Oceana, the fi ne-dining seafood house in New York, also calls out "Low Alcohol" in a section of its signature cocktails. The current menu offers two spritzer variations, one built with a two-amari base, the other with St. Germain liqueur as a base; both topped with prosecco. "It's a great upsell for our guests, who, if they are looking for something low alcohol, might be more inclined to order a soda or juice or even just drink water," says bar manager Dan McLaughlin. The low- alcohol label helps steer customers toward those alternatives. The low-proof options pair well with the restaurant's varied clientele, says McLaughlin. Oceana's guests include people who want to go out after work but don't feel comfortable drinking a lot with coworkers or bosses; tourists tired from walking around all afternoon; commuters who want something light before they catch their train home; and theater-goers who want a cocktail that won't put them to sleep halfway through the show. The popularity of Italian aperitivo culture and lighter Spritz cocktails is fueling the trend as well. "I love Spritzes," says Jon Lewis, bar director of Rue in Portland, OR, a neo-bistro restaurant, serving a vegetable-forward, small-plate format menu, "They are a good way to start a meal or just to enjoy by themselves," he explains. "And you can drink them all day!" The restaurant opened in June, so Lewis is still gauging the interest of his clientele. The menu now includes two low-proof drinks: The Artichoke Spritz ($11), made with Cynar, Punt e Mes and Pamplemousse liqueur; and the Giulo Spritz ($10), concocted with Cocchi Americano and lemon juice, topped with sparkling rosé. LICENSED FOR LOW-PROOF Thamin Saleh, owner of the Jeninni Kitchen + Wine Bar in Pacifi c Grove, CA, has a solid business reason for serving low-alcohol cocktails: he has a license for beer and wine only. "A liquor license is a really big investment, and it didn't make sense with the small bar area I have, and my demographics," explains Saleh. Full liquor licenses run as high as $50,000, he notes, while the beer and wine license cost him just $500. The sommelier started experimenting using beer, wine and soju from his stock. Saleh labels the drinks "Shims + Sessions," hoping those terms will intrigue guests into trying them. It has: The cocktails have been a hit with customers. "Furthermore, we fi gured that having a low-alcohol cocktail prior to the meal, for example, would not compromise the opportunity to sell wine with dinner." The hunch proved correct: So far beverage sales have increased by 7.4%, and Saleh expects that to rise to 9% by the end of the year. Some operators are pairing lower-proof cocktails with meals. "Low- alcohol cocktails is a subject I am very passionate about," says Amanda Reed, beverage director at the recently opened Heartwood Provisions in Seattle. "Our concept is focused on food and cocktail pairings, so almost every dinner and dessert menu item has a suggested cocktail pairing," she explains. PHOTO CREDIT: PAUL JOHNSON