Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/230154
Jordan chardonnay develops a creamy midpalate, while also retaining Fuji apple and Asian pear fruit character in its taste profile. "Batonnage can also bring out a nuttiness in the flavor, but that is something we don't want, as too much batonnage can mask the fruit flavors we want to retain," Miller said. Lees provide nutrients to assist ML. However, Miller said, "We want partial ML to add a component to the taste profile, but we don't allow full ML, because we don't want to take away the crisp fruit and acidity in the wine." Batonnage and lees contact also help buffer oak influence and wood tannin, to balance oak integration without overwhelming the fruit. La Follette said his chardonnay batonnage can be highly variable from lot to lot. He starts out stirring once a week, and this may continue for a few months. With other lots, stirring may start at once a week, w w w. v w m m e d i a.com then go to every other week, then once a month, and stop after two or three months. MacRostie Winery & Vineyards in Sonoma, known for its Sonoma Coast chardonnay, carefully uses sur lie elevage and batonnage to balance structure and mouthfeel with fruit character. Winemaker Heidi Bridenhagen said, "In general, stirring provides a richer, more rounded mouthfeel." Chardonnay is 90% barrel fermented, with barrels stirred by hand with a rod at least once a month after primary fermentation. "I taste each lot to determine if it will be stirred or not," she explained. "Stirring incorporates oxygen and can promote more aldehyde aromatics and can reduce fresh fruit aromas. Depending on the wine and vineyard source, we can increase or decrease these attributes." At the end of ML, stirring stops and the wine is left in barrel until racking. For the tank-fermented chardonnay, Winemaker Heidi Bridenhagen of MacRostie Winery & Vineyards tastes each chardonnay lot to determine if batonnage is needed. J a n - Feb 2014 | V INE YA RD & W INE RY M A N A G EM EN T 65