Vineyard & Winery Management

January/February 2014

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SOILCOHEN & CELLAR REMI Complexity The Quest for Whole-cluster fermentation is back in a big way hole-cluster fermentation in red wine is a technique employed by winemakers who believe it adds complexity, aromatic lift, structure and intrigue to their wines. This technique had been considered rustic before global winemaking moved toward more fruitdriven, riper styles, but it has been gaining in popularity in recent years as winemakers look for more nuance and complexity in their wines. However, even the most ardent supporters of whole-cluster fermentation believe that it is not appropriate for every fermentation. stems themselves contribute aroma and texture compounds, including tannin, to the wine. Stem inclusion also changes the oxygen dynamic in the fermentation vessel, especially early in the fermentation, before berries are broken through punchdowns, pigeage or by fermentation. With whole clusters, berries are intact and on their rachis, and fermentation begins internally in each intact berry, essentially creating an array of micro-fermentations. This is believed to create more aromatic lift and diversity in the wine. Stems contribute aromatic compounds that sensorily range from earthy or spicy, to notes of tobacco, dried herbs and/or pepper, and in some cases, vegetative green notes. The choice to use whole clusters, and at what percentage, often depends on the winemaker's perception of the ripeness of the stems, the ripeness of the grapes, + Whole-cluster fermentation and the possible flavor and in red wine can add comtexture contribution of the plexity, aromatic lift, tannin stems to the fermentation. and structure. Green stems tend to add + The decision to use whole more vegetative notes, due clusters often depends on to the extraction of arothe winemaker's perception matic compounds called of the ripeness of the stems methoxypyrazines, often and grapes. specifically 2-methoxy3-isopropylpyrazine, which + Grape varieties that have smells like green bell pephigh levels of pyrazines, and pers. Stems that show vineyard blocks with lesssome browning and ligniripe fruit, may not be the fication at the attachment best candidates. point to the cane gener+ Whole-cluster fermentation ally tend to have less green does not always produce character and contribute straightforward analytical or more perfumed notes of organoleptic results. earth, pepper and dried herbs. Since certain varieties, AT A GLANCE Fermenting with stems can enhance wine aromas, but in high-pyrazine varieties such as cabernet sauvignon, it can elevate vegetative aromas in an undesirable way. Including whole clusters in red-wine fermentation can have several effects. The w w w. v w m m e d i a.com J a n - Feb 2014 | V INE YA RD & W INE RY M AN A G EM EN T 31

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