Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/230154
SOIL REMI COHEN & CELLAR such as cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, tend to have high levels of pyrazines in the grapes themselves, including stems in the fermentation can elevate vegetative aromas in a way that is not desirable. Wines made with less-ripe fruit can also become too astringent or green with wholecluster fermentation. MYRIAD VARIABLES Several factors should be considered when deciding whether or not to include whole clusters in red-wine fermentation. Matthew Rorick, winemaker for Forlorn Hope wines in Napa Valley, considers whole-cluster fermentation to be one "of the more significant decisions that can be made in directing the elaboration of a wine." Rorick uses whole clusters in an "all-ornothing fashion," meaning a wine is either 100% whole clusters or it's 100% destemmed. However, before deciding to use whole clusters, he assesses the characteristics of the site and the variety, the chemistry of the must, the behavior of that block's historical fermentations, and the character of previous vintages, all within the context of historical and contemporary examples of other wines that inspire him. Other winemakers might choose to use a certain percentage of whole clusters in the fermentation, rather than Rorick's black and white approach. Ryan Hodgins, winemaker for Breggo Cellars in Rorick of Forlorn Hope takes an all-ornothing approach to whole-cluster fermentation. Mendocino County's Anderson Valley, uses up to 25% whole clusters for pinot noir, noting that "any more and I find that the tannins can get a bit chewy and the aromatic signature of whole-cluster fermentation becomes too obvious." For syrah, Hodgins doesn't find the inclusion of whole clusters NEW & USED UNITS AVAILABLE All Major Credit Cards Accepted COLD SHOT CHILLERS® Low Temperature Glycol Chillers Most Mac es Shippe 5 Year Compressor Wa Weeks or Less Years Free Te Support 866-307-9731 FAX: 281-227-8404 32 V I N E YA R D & WIN E RY MANAGEM ENT www.waterchillers.com | Jan - Feb 2014 to have as obvious an impact on the aromatics and has often used up to 50%. Before deciding what percentage to include, he considers the ripeness of the year and the condition of the fruit when it comes to the winery. "In 2011, for example, I did not use any stems because of the relatively low ripeness," Hodgins explained. "In a riper year, I think the high-tone and herbal aromatics that whole cluster can add to pinot helps add complexity and provide depth to the fruit profile." Byron Kosuge, proprietor of B. Kosuge Wines in Napa and a consulting winemaker, has used wholecluster fermentation for many years with pinot noir and syrah, and is also experimenting with whole clusters for merlot, grenache and cabernet franc. Kosuge is intrigued with the way stems impact the wines, and how they vary from variety to variety. He has been surprised, for example, by how well whole-cluster fermentation works with merlot. "I worried that it might add a green note, but in fact, it gave the wine a plusher mouthfeel and prettier aromatics," he said. "If you are after a big, bold, ripe style with a lot of sweet fruit, you might want to proceed with caution; I am working toward a more aromatic style with less sweet, jammy fruit, so stems/ whole clusters work well for me." Kosuge added that "different vineyards have differing affinities for whole clusters, and figuring it out is often not straightforward." He began experimenting with whole-cluster fermentation in the 1990s, when he was the winemaker at Saintsbury winery in Carneros. At the time, he was looking for ways to add spice and complexity to the aromatic profile, noting that "Carneros pinot noir, at least the way I was making it at the time, had a tendency to be on the dark end of the spectrum, flavorwise, especially with the onset of the ENTAV clones, which were earlier-ripening than the old California clones." He found that the main benefit of adding whole clusters was in enhancing aromatics. With syrah and other varieties, w w w. v wm m e d i a . c o m