Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/646485
w w w. v w m m e d i a . c o m M a r - A p r 2 016 | V I N E YA R D & W I N E RY M A N A G E M E N T 5 9 Fiorentini, who has sold more than 100 units in the United States and Canada, sources amphorae from a factory in Impruneta (near Florence, Italy) that's been making the vessels by hand for five genera- tions. "There's something special about this clay. You see it in the roof tiles from the 15th century," says Fiorentini. Impruneta clay has been used in winemaking since the Etruscans, dating to the 7th cen- tury B.C. Ruins at Pompeii clearly show the Romans abundantly used amphorae for fermenting, preserv- ing and transporting wine. F i o r e n t i n i n o t e s t h a t e a c h amphora takes days to build and months to dry before it's ready to be fired in a kiln. It's a labor of love. A NATURAL FOR NICHE PLAYERS Clay particularly appeals to wine- makers who are either focusing on non-Nielsen chart toppers, like Ital- ian varieties, or who want to add another fermentation vessel to their arsenal. Some use amphorae to explore alternative fermentation and aging vessels, others want to learn more about traditional wine- making methods, and still others desire to soften certain wines with- out whacking them with wood. Most are drawn to the aesthetics of something so powerfully, naturally make wine like the Romans?" he asks. "I want to preserve varietal character, and oak imparts more structure and flavor than I'm after for these types of wines. Clay helps preserve the grape's person- ality and keeps wines fresh when bottled at a younger age." He's made Montepulciano, Aglianico and Nebbiolo in both 500 and 800 L amphorae and plans to work with a Greco di Tufo clone from his estate vineyard when it begins producing enough fruit. Brian Terrizzi of Giornata Wines in Paso Robles made his first vin- tage in an amphora in 2012. Ter- rizzi explains, "We're making Italian varieties and I want them to taste like Italy. We're following their techniques and using amphorae for fermentation. We're also using Italian large-format barrels. We see it as a way to educate and share some history." Jordan Fiorentini, winemaker at Epoch Estate, is married to iPak's Manu Fiorentini, so naturally she's added amphorae to her stable of winemaking vessels, describing them as "gorgeous." Finding a and anciently beautiful. They also fit nicely with the notion of handcraft- ed wines. Chris Ferrara of Clesi Wines in San Luis Obispo grows Italian varieties. He traveled extensively in Italy, so he naturally gravitated toward amphorae. "Why can't we + Ancient clay vessels known as amphorae are gaining popularity among winemakers. + Winemakers who focus on unusual varieties are the most likely to employ amphorae. + Wine ferments slower and cooler in clay. + Clay allows slightly more oxygen access than barrels or concrete, so aging times can be shortened prior to bottling. + Clay tends to soften a wine's character and enhance aromatics. + Amphorae are more of a challenge to move and clean than wood barrels, yet considerably less expensive than concrete. + Most winemakers using amphorae today are in the experimental stages with them. AT A GLANCE Chris Ferrera of Clesi Wines ferments his Italian varieties in amphorae. Photo: Jimmy Roberts