Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/81015
WINERY SOIL & CELLAR vidual fermentations and filling and emptying these vessels. It is a labor of love, yet proponents tout the advantages of using natural vessels in both sustainability and wine quality. SARACINA EXPERIMENTATION Bryan Vansell of Mission Clay Products in Oakland, Calif., one of the last remaining domestic extrud- ed clay pipe companies, recently began repurposing clay pipes into fermentation vessels. Vansel l approached John Fetzer, owner of Saracina Vineyards in Mendocino County, Calif., to work together to develop ceramic fermentors, using the ancient concept of clay vessels and using new formats and modern fittings. Saracina winemaker Alex Mac- Gregor is no stranger to alternative fermentors, as most of Saracina's wines are produced in small ves- sels including oak and stainless steel barrels. Mission Clay pro- vided Saracina with two 500-gallon column tanks and three 250-gallon shorter, wider red-wine fermen- tors. Fetzer and MacGregor chose to keep the tanks unlined and unglazed, because they want the wine to be in contact with the clay. The tanks are outfitted with valves that are sealed with beeswax, and concrete lids that are coated inter- nally and sealed using beeswax. Saracina began using the col- umn tanks in 2010 for a chardon- nay fermentation and aging. The same block of chardonnay was fermented in stainless steel tanks, oak barrels and the clay column tanks. MacGregor is still collecting data and analyzing these wines, but he found the chardonnay from the clay column tank to be rounder and creamier than the other lots. He also noted that during the aging of the wine, its temperature never exceeded 65°F, even during the hottest days of the summer, due to the thickness of the column walls. Saracina has also used the col- umn tank for malolactic fermenta- tion and aging of a syrah lot. The red-wine fermentors have been used for small lots of sangiovese, WWW.VWM-ONLINE.COM Saracina Vineyards is experimenting with clay fermentation vessels. Photo: Bryan Vansell cabernet sauvignon and syrah, and the results have been promising. MacGregor is working with Van- sell to design 60-gallon terra cotta "barrels" that will fit on a typi- cal barrel rack, can be used with a barrel-cleaning system, and can be stirred for lees contact. Saracina also plans to eventually bury the column tanks underground, to take advantage of the natural tempera- ture control and stabilization. Vansel l hopes to diversi fy through customization for individual wineries. With ceramics, a winery can customize both functional and aesthetic design elements, within limits. Since ceramic is heavy, there is a scale limit, and Vansell said he FEELING STUCK? We can help avoid VA side effects. Only ConeTech can reduce the alcohol in fermenting must, without the slightest negative effect on the wine. www.conetech.com info@conetech.com ConeTech has helped countless winemakers solve this serious problem. To see how we can help you call us at (707) 577-7500. SEPT - OCT 2012 VINEYARD & WINERY MANAGEMENT 37 believes the focus will be on small- er vessels, with the upper limit the 10-foot-tall, 500-gallon column tanks produced for Saracina. "The goal has been to get this on a workable artisan basis," Mac- Gregor said. In addition to pro- viding a fermentation vessel that can enhance wine quality, he and Fetzer believe the products are environmentally friendly, especially compared to deforestation for oak barrel and tank production, and mining and manufacturing for stain- less steel tanks. Comments? Please e-mail us at feedback@vwm-online.com.