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Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/121046
California Dreamin��� Though the original moscato wines reign from Italy, more California versions are now on the market. According to the USDA National Agricultural Statistics Of���ce���s 2011 Grape Crush Report, total purchased tons of California muscat blanc more than doubled from 2010 to 2011. These wines are available at various price points from many top players, including Barefoot Cellars, Sutter Home, Mirrasou and Red Truck, and several smaller vineyards. On-premise, the popularity of moscato overall is helping fuel interest in the California grape. When looking for a moscato to include on his list, Tom Oliveri, owner of Peppercorn���s in Worcester, MA, says he tasted many before settling on the Mirrasou moscato. ���It���s what I call an upgraded white zinfandel,��� he explains. ���It���s the next step for someone who is a white zin drinker���sweet, but not candy-like.��� Amy Goldberger, sommelier at Fifth Floor Restaurant in San Francisco, carries the Navarro muscat as well as three other moscatos. ���The fruit is riper on the Navarro muscat, but it does have similar characteristics to the Old World muscats that I love, which is why I serve it,��� she says. ���It is a great aperitif and pairs well with a lot of dishes on our menu. ��� ���MPL 26 | APRIL 2013 MORE THAN A FAD Some operators were skeptical about moscato at first. Tavistock Restaurants wasn���t sure about incorporating the wine at its concepts, which include Abe & Louies, Joe���s American Bar & Grill and Napa Valley Grill. ���We don���t want to follow fads,��� says wine director Carolin Meier. ���Instead, we see where there are consistent shifts happening for our guests.��� Seeing that customers were indeed interested in this varietal, Meier added two moscatos (in addition to the Moscato d���Asti served at Tavistock���s Italian concepts) to the wine lists of a few of its 33 upscale restaurants in late 2012. ���We want to stay true to our brand, but also acknowledge and recognize the shift in what our guests are looking for,��� she explains. Moscato���s flavor profile was a key factor in the decision. While it���s on the light and sweet side, ���moscato adds something more than a white zin,��� Meier says. ���We can offer our guests something unexpected with moscato.��� She currently features the Delicato Domino moscato and HRM Rex Goliath moscato. ���We���ve intentionally stayed away from the entry point,��� Meier says, because Tavistock wanted to offer wines of a little higher quality, plus ���you want a flavor balance.��� EDUCATING THE CONSUMER When introducing the new wines across her various concepts, Meier added the varietal to Tavistock���s extensive staff trainings. But she decided to take the staff involvement to a new level by starting a ���tell, show, test and feedback��� challenge to staff. ���I���ve asked them to send me pictures of how they introduce these wines,��� she explains. ���I want managers to get five comments on the wines on OpenTable.com. This interaction helps me stay connect with the guest experience.��� It���s all part of enhancing the customer experience. ���If we are engaging people about wine, they are associating us with the wine experience,��� Meier says. It seems that the accessible, easy-to-drink and affordable moscato wines will continue to attract new fans. As Barteca���s Thomas notes, ���Just about everybody is drinking the wine and enjoys it.��� ��� Michelle Paolillo Lockett is a freelance food and beverage writer based near New York City. www.cheersonline.com DANIELLEDRUMMOND Chicago���s Quartino Ristorante offers Moscato d���Asti by the glass and bottle. sauce, ginger chicken with broccoli, orange peel chicken and, of course, lettuce wraps,��� Melton notes. At Fifth Floor Restaurant, Goldberger finds that guests gravitate toward the light and sweet muscats, but she���s more excited about the dry varieties. ���When people come in and ask for something more aromatic, I introduce them to a dry muscat, because it has all of the aroma and beauty of viognier with a crisper, lighter style. It���s also more of a value wine, so it���s less risky to try,��� she notes. She has five moscatos on her list that range from dry to quite sweet, including the Jorge Ordo��ez Moscatel Seco Botani ($44 a bottle), Terre di Pantelleria Zibibbo ($55 a bottle), Domaine de Durban Muscat de Beaumes de Venise ($14 a glass) and the bestselling Vietti Moscato d���Asti 2011 ($30 a half bottle, $11 a glass).