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Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/30177
end up outfi tting you with $2 pieces of steel that are about as eff ective as prison shanks.” To fi x that situation, Cannon recently upgraded his bar to include serrated, off set knives. But the biggest challenge is skill-based: getting bartenders up to speed on the cooking and knife skills necessary for executing culinary cocktails and educating chefs about spirits. “As a chef, you taste all the time. Not all bartenders realize that every lemon, every orange is going to taste a little diff erent and you have to adjust for that. I think what people don’t realize is mixology is like baking; exact measurements are crucial,” says Reznik. Others talk about outstanding advanced programs which The Drawing Room features the The Nooner, made with Maker’s Mark, maple syrup, fresh grated ginger and orange bitters. includes master knife-skills, preserves-making and meat- smoking classes with chef-instructors at Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts, Chicago. Giving a national perspective on this, David Nepove, national Dan’s fi nesse and understanding of spirits is what pulls it all together,” says Stegner. Th us far, more than six of the guest- bartender cocktails Stegner and Sviland have collaborated on have done so well they’ve moved to core, seasonal menus. One of those, the Apothecary ($9), is a mix of Carpano Antica vermouth, lime juice, North Shore No. 11 gin, orange bitters and Triple Sec. CAVEATS AND HURDLES Moving forward, there are some challenges to contend with. Leading guests through a progression of spirited pairings, “You really have to do it in a way that they’re not smashed at the end,” says Lafi tte’s Jackson. Smaller pours and/or lighter cocktails can help. Adam Seger, who blazed bar-chef trails at Nacional 27 and now works to promote his own Hum Botanical Spirit, says whenever he crafts cocktails for a spirited dinner, he keeps alcohol content similar to a glass of wine. “Anything over 15 percent alcohol would be too dominant,” he says. Kelly Liken also keeps pours to three ounces, and Charles Joly says for his “At the Bar” events he “half-sizes all drinks.” Joly says it’s also important to use appropriate spirits for each course. “You’re not going to start someone out with a bold, high-proof cocktail as an amuse: you need to ease guests in just as a chef wouldn’t serve a large heavy dish as an amuse.” Bar design also still lags behind the kitchen. “Th e bar is always the last thought, even though it’s the fi rst thing people see,” says Bridget Albert, Southern Wine & Spirits Illinois’ master mixologist. “Because bars are not designed by bartenders, they’re not as functional as they could be. Th ere are so many speed bumps behind the bar.” “Take knives for example,” says Blokes & Birds Cannon. “With a knife service, the bar is always the afterthought. Th ey 32 | MAY 2011 president of the U.S. Bartenders Guild and a career bartender, says he sees a lot more focus on culinary-skill type seminars and classes included at meetings of the Guild’s 21 chapters. “Th e spirit-focused seminars are still central and crucial, but there’s a lot more interest in pickling, syrups, farm-to-glass and related skills.” It’s also true that most chefs are not well educated about spirits. “Th at’s where the chasm is,” says Cameron Mitchell’s Valentine. While independent chefs interviewed for this story said they are doing their best to learn more about spirits both for cooking and cocktail creation, some chain-restaurant chefs say that at least from the idea-generation side of things, spirits and food are often still kept separate. “Th ere is absolutely no crossing over of chefs and mixologists here at Th e Cheesecake Factory,” said Bob Okura, vice president of culinary development and corporate executive chef for the Calabasas Hills, CA-based chain. “Everything that is developed for the bar and beverage and dessert pages of our menu are managed separately, with the only connection being an occasional question like “Do you think this is too sweet?” Sums Cameron Mitchell’s Valentine, “Frankly, our chefs have way too much to do to learn everything there is to know about spirits. “Th at’s why this has to be a collaborative eff ort between the professional mixologists we bring in, our chefs and our bartenders.” Monica Kass Rogers writes about culinary and menu trends, as well as food service, from Chicagoland. ANOTHER ROUND Visit CheersOnline.com/more to read more about large operations can craft food-friendly cocktails. Or use your smart phone to instantly scan the image to the right. www.cheersonline.com