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Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/63431
SCENE By Thomas Henry Strenk New York City impresarios follow Mexican muse to open bar dedicated to pulque. Nectar of the Gods " like drink fermented from the sap of the agave plant. Th e ancient Aztecs called the intoxicating beverage "nectar of the gods," and their priests drank it before performing their bloodthirsty rites. After reading a travel article about a pulqueria Renaissance, the Tierneys ventured to the Mexican capital to visit pulque bars and taste the street food that would form the basis of their concept's menu. When the space next door to the duo's Apotheke became available, they decided to open Pulqueria. pharmacy-themed Apotheke and now Pulqueria in New York's Chinatown. Down in Mexico City, pulquerias are bars dedicated to pulque, a milky, beer- I thought that a pulqueria would be a great concept for a restaurant. New Yorkers love Mexican food but no one here knows about pulque," says Heather Tierney, co-owner with his brother Christopher Tierney of the down a set of stairs in a shady alleyway and the lack of a sign, trendy crowds found Pulqueria when it opened late last fall. Flickering candle light in the subterranean space reveals pre- Columbian stone-carved motifs on the walls, colorful tile fl ooring and thatched palapas overhead. Naturally, pulque, imported from a Despite its out-of-the-way location secret source in Tlaxcala, Mexico, is the focus of the beverage menu. Th e straight stuff is $6 a glass, but most customers go for one of the Curados ($12), cocktails with pulque as the base. Th e drinks are garnished with a pineapple leaf and a slice of the featured fruit or vegetable. Th e most popular is Watermelon, made with fresh melon and lime juices, pulque, mescal and the herb epazote. Curados made with veggies such as green tomatillos and jicama are also popular calls, says Heather. Groups can also opt for a Maceta ($54), a liter of Curado served in an artisanal pitcher. Margaritas are also available by the ($60) Maceta variations, including Tamarind-Mint and Hibiscus. Most popular among the cocktails is the Negroni Mexicano ($14), a riff on the classic made with mezcal, Aperol, sweet vermouth and house bitters. Several Mexican beers are on tap ($7) or or glass ($14) in few by the bottle ($8). Draft beers star in the two Micheladas; the Classic ($10), mixed with lime and spices; and the Marinera Especial ($13), featuring Clamato juice and garnished with a shrimp skewer. DEPTH AND BREADTH Keeping to the agave theme, Pulqueria The pulque-based Curados cocktail is made with green tomatillos. boasts about 120 Tequilas, and 40 mezcals, one of the biggest collections in New York. "People are just starting to catch on to mescal," says the owner. What used to be considered poor-man's tequila is acquiring 20 | MAY 2012 www.cheersonline.com