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TPW-March17

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30 nMarch 2017n www.thunderpress.net THUNDER PRESS increase in warning signals, fl ashing lights and guardrails. The Tennessee side seemed to have a more laid-back attitude of, "Hey, you're a grownup… behave yourself." And the weather can be unpredictable, cold and foggy even during the summer months while rid- ing this section of mile-high mountain ridges. At these higher altitudes, as the temperature dropped, the vibrant col- ors from earlier were replaced with the dull grey of winter in full advance. But as soon as you snaked your way back downhill towards Robbinsville, the Fahrenheit rose and mountainside col- ors rebounded. After Robbinsville we followed the Cherohala (now NC-143) until it ended at Highway 28. From there it was a short ride to Deals Gap and the lair of the Dragon. Taking Highway 28 northwest towards the state line, you soon hit TN-129, the fabled Tail of the Dragon. Only 11 miles long, the Dragon fea- tures 318 curves (most quite tight) with no intersecting roads or drive- ways, making it one of the most desir- able motorcycling roads in America. This is also where you will fi nd Deals Gap. Although it's not even shown on a lot of maps, this spot in the road is famous as the gathering point for the uninitiated and inexperienced, the qualifi ed and the seasoned—a mixed bag of the skilled and the clueless. The danger is quite real and as a tes- tament to the fact, the Tree of Shame is a prominent shrine located in Deals Gap. With no marque exempt, the tree is adorned with bits and pieces of every possible brand of motorcy- cle—fenders, turn signals, footpegs, fuel tanks—the Dragon's Tail has been slapping riders for years. Which direction you ride the Dragon and the time of day you make your run may make quite a difference. We left Deals Gap at 4:00 in the after- noon, riding west, and encountered lots of glare from the sun. (Many rid- ers take the opportunity to ride it both directions since it is so short.) But one of the most dangerous problems was those traveling the opposite direction and drifting into your lane when unable to negotiate a curve. And then there were those two idiots coming towards me ped- al-to-the-metal in a convertible sports car complete with roll bar, three-point seat restraints and helmets (helmets!) sliding through a corner and kicking rocks into my path as they raced past. Good news is that, after 14 years of efforts, Tennessee has fi nally banned trucks over 30-feet long from using the Tail of the Dragon. (In no way can I imagine taking a truck and trailer rig through the Dragon.) So I can now mark the Tail of the Dragon off my bucket list and be happy in the fact that no parts were contributed to the Tree of Shame by this Texan. Although I'd never heard of the Devil's Triangle, it turned out to be the most enjoyable of all three rides. Located in the mountains of the Cumberland Plateau about 30 miles due west of Knoxville, the Triangle is a 44-mile loop comprised of TN-330, TN-116 and TN-62. The most interest- ing sections are on TN-116. Our trio of journalists decided to run it coun- terclockwise beginning in the town of Oliver Springs. (I later discovered while researching this article that it's highly recommended that you ride it clockwise—the reason forthcoming.) The ride up 330 is fun but when you arrive at Laurel Springs and jump over onto Highway 116, the action is cranked to the max—tight twisties as good as any on the Tail of the Dragon with deep ravines, rocky gullies and off-camber corners. This fi rst section also includes three of the tightest and steepest switchbacks I've ever encoun- tered, all uphill and all to the right, a somewhat unnatural combination— which is why the Devil's Triangle website advises riders to do this loop in a clockwise direction, simply because these three switchbacks are much easier to navigate in the down- hill direction. In this section there are few turnouts available but even those are on exaggerated inclines that do not encourage leaving your bike attended only by its kickstand. Further along, the area becomes a little more level and you will come across farms and rural homesteads so you need to be aware of intersecting traffi c and kids on dirt bikes. About halfway through we stopped at the Blue & White Service Station in New River. Although still standing, the station itself closed in 2000 and only a small grocery store next door remains. The owners of the grocery told the story of their grandparents running the Blue & White most of their lives, raising four children in a tiny side apartment and operating a beauty parlor in the basement. Near the end of Highway 116 you will fi nd Frozen Head State Park and a passing view of Brushy Mountain State Prison (now closed but once housing James Earl Ray, the convicted assassin of Martin Luther King, Jr.). Tennessee fully embraces the importance of outdoor tourism and the popularity of these roads with the motorcycling public and the business community has responded with numer- ous lodges, B&B's, bike shops and eateries that specialize in catering to the biker crowd. My days spent here were fulfi lling and more enjoyable than I ever expected. But, a problem has arisen in the interim. Apparently there were a few other notable roads we missed—the Moonshiner 28, Diamondback 226, the Snake and Six Gap North Georgia to name a few. Guess my list just got a little longer. 4 The Cherohala Skyway in late October is resplendent in fall colors The Museum of the Appalachia in Norris, Tennessee, includes a gristmill, wheelwright and blacksmith shop The Tree of Shame at Deals Gap continues to collect wrecked bike pieces after mishaps on the Tail of the Dragon Tennessee Continued from page 28

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