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MARKET WATCH TIM TEICHGRAEBER through a prism. Instead of a beam of light, you can see the layers that live beyond." Bieler said that timely bottling and release schedules aimed at getting the wine to market in the key spring/summer high season for rosé consumption have also been key factors in Charles & Charles' growth. "It's still a seasonal item, so the time of release and attack is critical, but I see a broadening of that," he said. "It's not year-round at all, but there's a lot more rosé consumption happening into the fall. Buyers for key retailers are building their cornerstones for the season and are making commitments in February, and certainly by March and April." The Charles & Charles Rosé is made in the Provence style, from Washington state fruit. Bieler said he believes that with the right techniques, almost any red grape can be used to make a classically proportioned rosé. "You have to react to the tendencies of that grape and adjust how you attack it … It might take a few vintages to find the right balance," said Bieler, who is also making a cabernet franc rosé with a friend in New York state, a wine that is still undergoing steady refinement. THINKING PINK IN TEXAS In Lubbock, Texas, McPherson Cellars is another winery that is using early picking and quick pressing to make focused, relatively low-alcohol rosés that are finding fans well outside of its home state. Winemaker Kim McPherson's father founded Llano Estacado Winery, so 24 V I N E YARD & WINERY MANAGEMENT | he knows his potential grape sources well and seeks out specific sites and growers to make a Frenchstyle, purposeful rosé that's fresh and focused. "I've sort of patterned my rosé after some of the Rhone dry rosés, said McPherson, although his wines aren't as light in color. "Everyone says, 'Hey Kim, can you do that?' Well, yeah, I can if I want to bentonite the juice, but mine just comes out a little bit darker, just because it is what it is. "I have one grower who grows all of the grapes. If I tell him I need this much of this and this much of that, he'll go out at night and mechanically pick four tons of cinsault, three tons of mourvedre and two tons of grenache," explained McPherson. "He'll say, 'You know, Kim, the mourvedre is this (Brix) and the cinsault is this (Brix),' but it's basically a field blend. You get it all in the tank at about 23 °Brix and we go from there. People ask if it has any skin contact – yeah, about an hour and a half from his farm to here." McPherson Cellars' rosé is a modest program, but is also growing. "I only do about 3,550 cases, that's it, but I sell it back East and they're very excited about it, especially this year," said McPherson. The home market in Texas is becoming more interested in rosé wines, and specifically in finer versions of rosé. "Sommeliers have gotten behind them. These restaurants now finally have a good selection of rosés. Not just Texas rosés – wines from all over," said McPherson. "For a long time, Whole Foods was the only place that had a decent rosé July - Aug 2013 selection. Everybody kind of caught on. Now you go to Whole Foods and they have 13 or 14 roses." Asked what he's learned about making rosé in recent years, McPherson said that the color of the wine makes a powerful impression on potential buyers. "The lighter it is, the more these guys like it," he said. "The lighter it is, the better. I'd love to make it lighter, but the syrah's not going to let me." Tim Teichgraeber cut his teeth in retail wine sales before becoming the wine columnist for the Minneapolis Star Tribune. Today he is a contributor to the San Francisco Chronicle, Tasting Panel, Opus Vino and other publications, when he's not working as an entertainment lawyer in San Francisco. Comments? Please e-mail us at feedback@vwmmedia.com. w w w. v w m m e d i a . c o m