Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/230154
SOIL REMI COHEN & CELLAR In syrah, I see more tannin, but for whatever reason, I typically don't see lower acids." Rorick, who has employed whole-cluster fermentation on a wide range of both red and white varieties, including ribolla gialla, verdelho, viognier, riesling, sauvignon blanc, barbera, merlot and petit verdot, has also performed trials. With alvarelhão, he had fermented the variety entirely wholebunch since 2007. However, in 2011, he fermented test lots of 100% destemmed, 50% whole cluster, and 100% whole cluster. "The difference in depth, texture, vibrancy and aromatic interest were astounding," he said. "To my taste, the 100% whole cluster was by far the more compelling wine, and I've stayed the course since." In fact, of his Forlorn Hope wines, only one is currently destemmed, the Mil Amores, which is a field blend of Portuguese varieties that tend to have high tannin levels and relatively high pH. "One of the more interesting organoleptic effects that stem inclusion can have on a wine is the simultaneous hardening and softening on the palate," Rorick said. "Stem tannin brings the wine more grip, making it harder, but the way in which it is experienced on the palate is softened by a slightly increased pH in the wine due to stem potassium. There is a dynamic tension in this combined effect that can bring an added dimension of life to a wine, highlighting or supporting its other textural elements." TASTE COUNTS In Kosuge's experience, he has not found consistent analytical results, although he notes that whole clusters generally raise the pH. He said he "doesn't care what the chemistry does – within No Plates to Break No Sharp Edges The INNOVATIVE – ECONOMICAL – PROVEN way to secure movable wires on vertical systems. The Original, Patented JR Clip. Visit www.vinbiz.com Hear the testimonials See the Fast Installation Call 800-544-2210 US Patents #5,501,035 and #5,916,028 for free samples Designed to fit all size T-posts for vertical trellis systems, the versatile J-R~clip® is installed in seconds and withstands mechanical harvesting and pruning. Available in 4", 6", and 8" widths. Vineyard Industry Products Manufacturers of Highway Stakes and Cross Arms Mill direct shipments anywhere in the U.S. and Canada T-Posts 34 Hwy Stakes V I N E YA R D & WIN E RY MANAGEM ENT | Rebar Jan - Feb 2014 End Posts Wire reason, of course – as long as the wine tastes better. And while the pH and tannin effect of stems and whole clusters has been pretty well documented, the effect on the wine as experienced when actually tasting it is often less predictable. For example, even though stems generally add tannin to pinot noir, I find that often wines with whole clusters seem less obviously tannic – or perhaps it is just that they have a more pleasing tannin impression. And with syrah, adding what sometimes are fairly green-looking stems can make the tannins taste riper and broader, and not green at all. Studying the impact on each individual wine, and keeping an open mind, is the best way to proceed." The inclusion of whole clusters in red-wine fermentation does not always produce straightforward results. These winemakers' experience, instincts and artistic approach lead them to continue using wholecluster fermentation, knowing that the resulting wines will be more complex and fascinating. They all share an explorative and openminded approach, knowing that every variety, vineyard and vintage can produce different results, which makes the process dynamic and exciting. "Whole-bunch fermentation is a way of reconnecting to, or a reexploration of, California's early viticultural and enological tradition," Rorick said. "It is up to the consumer to decide what types of wine he or she prefers, but the practice of whole-cluster fermentation is a compelling factor to consider when producing and enjoying wine." Remi Cohen is the director of winemaking & viticulture for Cliff Lede Vineyards in Napa Valley. Her primary areas of expertise include viticulture, sustainable vineyard management, winemaking, grower and winery relations, and strategic business development. She also writes a wine industry blog, which can be found at blog.vinestowine.com. Comments? Please e-mail us at feedback@vwmmedia.com. w w w. v wm m e d i a . c o m