Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/230154
CHALLENGES AND PROMISE Napa Valley-based winemaker Bill Dyer, who spent 20 years at Sterling Vineyards developing single-vineyard wines and now consults for others, was lured south to make wine in Valle de Guadalupe, and he's excited about its potential. "Seat-of-the-pants viticulture and winemaking is giving way to heads-up practices without sacrificing regionality," he said. Having worked in British Columbia's Okanagan Valley and in parts of Oregon, Dyer was asked in 2008 to consult for Villa Montefiori, not long after he had attended a tasting of Mexican wines at the former Copia site in Napa. "What I saw was there were some very good wines and some that had some problems, especially with salinity," he recalls. "I had some perspective." He sees promise in the region's gradual move to Rhone and Italian varieties that are good matches for the soils and climate. At Montefiori, which has approximately 40 acres of grapes planted, Dyer is putting an increasing focus on sangiovese, aglianico, montepulciano and nebbiolo. He's also recently planted five rows each of nero d'avola and teroldego. "It's the nebbiolo which I'm guessing will become the signature variety for the region," he said. "The wines I tasted from the 2013 harvest got my attention for their intensity and concentration. This terroir seems to favor late-ripening, thick-skinned varieties." Water remains the region's biggest challenge. With a mere 6 inches of rain per year on average, the quantity and quality of water are limiting factors, with salinity more of an issue for vines planted near the river; those planted on the benchlands fare much better, as the water is fresher. Either way, irrigation is needed. TOURIST DRAWS Despite the region's water challenges, the increasing quality of Valle de Guadalupe wines and the accompanying tourism infrastruc- The Museo de la Vid y el Vino in Valle de Guadalupe includes exhibits on the history, industry and art of wine. Clean • Sterilize • Humidify "We can do it all" ... • Bottling Lines Steam Generators Pressure Washers • Barrels • Winery Equipment • Vineyard Equipment Barrel Washers and Rinsers Humidifiers Stemware Washers ARS/Pressure Washer Company We work well under pressure. We work well under pressure. w w w. v w m m e d i a.com "There's a change in the air," Dyer noted. "Some new wineries have opened up and more of them are more akin to what you'd see in Napa, smaller-scale and geared toward tourism." Virginie Boone writes regularly • Tanks • Floors and Walls ture are attracting visitors. In the last year and a half, the region has attracted 120,000 visitors, according to Gabriel Diaz, director of Museo de la Vid y el Vino, which opened its doors in June 2012. The $4 million wine museum sits gracefully atop a slight hill overlooking a sea of grapes, and is devoted to wine and viticulture in Mexico. Good restaurants have also taken root, as have modern inns, bed and breakfasts and high-end resorts. El Cielo Winery, a new destination with stainless-steel tanks, sorting tables, French oak barrels and a swanky tasting room with food pairings is, to Dyer, emblematic of the region's momentum right now. about wine for The Press Democrat, Sonoma Magazine and Zester Daily, and is a contributing wine reviewer for Wine Enthusiast. Comments? Please e-mail us at feedback@vwmmedia.com. 800-735-9277 or www.cleanwinery.com J a n - Feb 2014 | V INE YA RD & W INE RY M A N A G EM EN T 85