Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/299589
w w w. v w m m e d i a . c o m M a y - J u n e 2 014 | V I N E YA R D & W I N E RY M A N A G E M E N T 3 3 s restaurant wine lists across the U.S. have diversified to include more wines from Italy, Spain, Austria and other countries with less-well-known wine- growing regions, the American con- sumer is becoming more comfortable trying wines that are less familiar. Variet- ies such as grüner veltliner and albariño are being added to a vernacular that used to be comprised mostly of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and chardonnay. The new genera- tion of sommeliers delights in discovering and experimenting with rare varieties and unique wines, and a trend has emerged among U.S. winemakers who enjoy adapt- ing heritage varieties rare in the States to their own sense of style and place. The proliferation of varieties used in California winemaking is evident from the California grape crush reports issued by the USDA National Agricultural Statistics Services during the last decade. In 2002, 34 white and 61 red varieties were listed in the report, with less than 2,000 of the 2,462,987 tons crushed in California listed as "other" varieties. By comparison, the 2012 report showed 43 white and 70 red varieties, with more than 16,000 of the 3,352,339 tons listed as "other." THE SEVEN-PERCENTERS Last year, a band of winemakers in Northern California created a tasting event that focused on small producers making wine from varieties uncommon in the U.S. The Seven % Solution organizers explained that roughly 93% of vineyards in the North Coast region are planted to eight grape varieties: cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, pinot noir, syrah, merlot, sauvignon blanc, zinfandel and petite sirah. They wanted to highlight wines made from the other 7%, which included wines from varieties such as picpoul, ribolla gialla and aglianico. Napa Valley vineyard manager and wine- maker Steve Matthiasson, who show- cased some of his Matthiasson wines at the tasting, began working with ribolla gial- la in 2002, alongside the late George Vare of Vare Vineyards and Abe Schoener of the Scholium Project. Vare cofounded Luna Vineyards in 1996, and during his tenure as president and chairman, Luna was instrumental in the + A new generation of som- meliers delights in discover- ing rare varieties and unique wines. + A trend has emerged with U.S. winemakers who adapt heritage, rare-to-the-U.S. varieties to their own sense of style and place. + The burgeoning market for unusual grapes offers opportunities for winemak- ers to be creative and push boundaries. + The most successful proj- ects involve the adapta- tion of varieties that are successful in other global regions. AT A GLANCE Rising from Obscurity S p a n i s h , I t a l i a n v a r i e t i e s f i n d s u c c e s s C a l i f o r n i a SOIL & CELLAR REMI COHEN Steve Matthiasson took part in the Seven % Solution tast- ing last year, which focused on small producers and uncom- mon varieties.