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Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/28636
T e look at Cotogna is industrial meets trattoria with lots of glass, exposed brick walls, rustic wood tables, chairs and paneling. Unlike Quince, which is only open for dinner, Cotogna off ers all-day dining in a casual atmosphere. A cozy and lively atmosphere also sets Cotogna apart from the more formal and restrained Quince. It’s everyday versus special occasion. And while there is some overlap in terms of clientele—the restaurant brings in lots of professionals at lunch—in general the demographic is a bit younger and a bit more adventurous. T is allows Tusk to sell things like squid, tripe and sea urchin that haven’t historically done as well at Quince. ITALIAN FOCUSED TOWN San Francisco has always been home to a plethora of great Italian restaurants. However, the last few years have brought an explosion of more regionally focused restaurants, with an accent on the cuisine of Southern Italy. Cotogna has a Northern Italian soul, and the wine list refl ects it with most of the wines coming from regions like Piemonte, Alto Adige, Friuli and the Veneto. For now the list is all Italian, though wine director David Lynch doesn’t rule out adding California wines to it at some point. At Cotogna, wines are $40 per bottle and $10 per glass across the board, and the list has about 45 selections, almost half of which are available by the glass. “T e list is a lesson in how to fi nd value in Italian wines. At $40 a bottle, you’re not going to fi nd a lot of blockbuster wines. I just want the wine to be good.” comments Lynch. Now is a great time for an Italian list, he adds, “We’re in a marketplace with a glut of wine, even with a strong Euro.” T e wine list’s focus is food friendly and features wines with good acidity and lower alcohol. T e vast majority of the wines are lighter and brighter, designed to go with simple, more rustic food. Some notable wines include a bright, fresh, citrusy wine, Soave Classico Pra from the Veneto, Langhe Nebbiolo de Forville from Piemonte and Gavi di Gavi from Villa Sparina, a lesser-known wine with great concentration from www.cheersonline.com The restaurant makes dishes such as rotisserie roasted leg of lamb (above) and lamb sausage (right). Piedmonte, and a good balance of acidity and fruit. Because many of the wines will be unfamiliar to customers, staff training is crucial. Lynch says they taste all the time and he prepares a document that goes into depth for servers. “It’s a small enough list but there is no substitute for tasting and the wines that sell the best are generally the ones the servers like.” Cotogna also off ers Italian-style cocktails and signature drinks each priced at $10, often using Italian spirits like Amaro, Maraschino, Punt e Mes and Cocchi Americano. Lynch says the cocktail bar is not a major revenue center, but shows they’ve thought about every detail of the drinks program. Amy Sherman is a San Francisco–based writer, recipe developer, and restaurant reviewer. She is the editor the award- winning food blog Cooking with Amy and is author of WinePassport: Portugal and William-Sonoma New Flavors for Appetizers. APRIL 2011 | 19