SCENE By Amy Sherman
The kitchen at Cotogna focuses on rotisserie items.
Cotogna: Trattoria Redux Two siblings share a name and a concept. W 18
hen chef and owner Michael Lusk of Michelin-starred Quince wanted to expand his operations, he opened up a more casual dining venue, right next door. Overall quality was maintained, sales and volume
increased and the new venture has received an enthusiastic response from customers and critics alike. Cotogna, which means “quince” in Italian, is the little sister to the fi ne dining
restaurant Quince, located in Jackson Square, on the border of the Financial District in San Francisco. T e menu features antipasti, house-made pastas, pizzas, grilled and wood-oven roasted entrées. It’s rare to fi nd anything on the menu over $20 and there is a daily three-course prix fi xe for only $24. An aff ordable and resolutely Italian menu is just one of many smart moves that have contributed to Cotogna’s success. Tusk worked at some of the Bay Area’s fi nest restaurants and spent time in the Barbaresco region of Northeastern Italy before opening Quince and then Cotogna.
| APRIL 2011
He is known for his exquisite handmade pasta, which is featured prominently on the menu at both restaurants. Aside from pasta, there is little to no chance of mistaking one menu from the other. T e centerpiece of Cotogna is a Tuscan wood-burning grill fi tted with a chimney that allows the restaurant to feature pizza and rotisserie items. While the menu changes frequently, a popular item that has stayed on the menu is Spit- Roasted Pork with Wild Fennel and Hot Pepper for $20.
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