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Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/28636
from the Mojito to the Gin & Tonic. “Identify the aromas and fl avors in a cocktail; isolate the ingredients and see where you can substitute and separate.” Andrés’ Washington, D.C. Nuevo Latino restaurant Café Atlantico is heavily infl uenced by molecular gastronomy, especially at the six seat minibar, and techniques including airs and spherifi cations inevitably found their way to the back bar. Guests can order the minibar Martini ($15), a one to one ratio of dry Vermouth with either vodka or gin garnished with a liquid olive, an orb that off ers the tangy brine of the real thing with a completely diff erent texture; over at Oyamel, patrons can sip the Salt Air Margarita ($12), where a sea foam-like topper replaces the usual salted rim. Foam-adorned beverages like those on Morton’s “Heavenly Drinks” menu also off er an unconventional way to add fl avor and texture to both classics and new spins. Most popular is the Heavenly Pomegranate Mortini (around $14 depending on the market), topped with a base of raspberry purée, lemonade and pasteurized egg white. Airs, spherifi cations and other guises of molecular mixology have been around for a few years, but do these so-called “parlor tricks” still belong in a drinks program? Richards submits that cost and practicality factor into whether or not to include these advanced cocktail techniques, but she believes they still have their place when used moderately and appropriately. She points to an updated Negroni on the Wynn’s bar menu, served with a grapefruit, Amaro and rose foam ($12). But Heugel, for one, questions the merit of a garnish like foam, whose texture and function contrast that of the silky, smooth, ideal cocktail. “I think that guests are weary of some of the modern techniques,” admits Zimorski. “We eschew the term molecular mixology. We’re not splitting atoms. We’re making drinks using natural products and manipulating texture and presentation.” Guests’ expectations regarding cocktail construction vary. Field points out that while advanced cocktail techniques often appeal to a younger, more adventurous demographic, Morton’s main customer base is more concerned with four key basics: a generous pour, balanced cocktail, quick service and a fair price. Zimorski notes that type of venue also comes into play, and that while bars with a focus on craft cocktails promote an expectation of appropriate glassware and an array of bitters and tinctures, high-volume establishments off er a decreased assumption in the overall experience. Perhaps even more important than type of venue are regional diff erences, which aff ect both large chains and independent operations. “It is important that cocktail bar owners build bars for their cities and not a perception about a national cocktail scene,” recommends Heugel. “T is issue more than any other should infl uence what type of cocktails are served in your bar.” No matter the size or scope of the beverage program—or the bar—operators have a lot of options to maintain an exciting cocktail menu, and keep guests returning. Richards points to the current trends of infusing liquor with dried fruit or www.cheersonline.com At the Wynn in Las Vegas a Sidecar ($16) is made with purée made from slowly roasted pineapple and sage leaves. tealeaves, and even barrel ageing an entire cocktail (see sidebar), which adds perceived value and easily allows for batching. It’s also a behind-the-scene technique that demonstrates how the end result—rather than showmanship—is what really matters in the glass. Kelly Magyarics is a wine and spirits writer, and wine educator, in the Washington, D.C. area. She is also a current candidate for the WSET Diploma. Kelly can be reached through her website, www.kellymagyarics.com, or on www.twitter.com/kmagyarics. APRIL 2011 | 35