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Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/41359
A sk many forward-thinking operators and they'll tell you that American whiskey is hot. Operators tout Bourbon's über-mixability, the grippy bite of rye and the multi-faceted smoky layers of Tennessee Whiskey. Creative mixologists use them all year long in classic and modern drinks that try to match each spirit's aroma, weight and fl avor profi le with seasonal ingredients. Patrons also enjoy their powerful and subtle nuances sipped neat, over ice or with a splash of water. Many operators were keen to share how these whiskeys are successfully marketed to both fans and newbies and the role that Bourbon has played in whiskey's current revival. "Whiskey in all forms is one of the most up and coming spirit categories in the cocktail scene today," notes Carlo Splendorini, lead bartender at MICHAEL MINA in San Francisco, part of the 18-location chain led by the Las Vegas-based Mina Group. "Demand by the public has grown and people have really started to take the time to learn about the subtle diff erences in whiskey." Indeed, statistics from the Beverage Information Group, Cheers' parent company, show a 2.3 percent increase in total sales of straight whiskey from 2009 to 2010. CATEGORY TRENDS Many beverage directors have said that whiskey's revival has been led by Bourbon, as the spirit's accessibility and versatility have made it a mixologists' darling. A much wider variety of Bourbon labels is available today on bar shelves than even ten years ago, points out Paul Rodriguez, the beverage director for Village Whiskey, a thirty-seat, whiskey-centric bar in Philadelphia's Rittenhouse Square, who stocks 63 Bourbons priced from $6 to $50. He cites Bourbon's surge in popularity in part to a contrast to neutrality. In a word, unlike some white spirits, Bourbon is full of character, with a tinge of innate sweetness that foregoes the need for an additional sweetener—like some fl avored spirits. While Bourbon must legally be comprised of at least 51 percent corn, subtle diff erences in the remainder of the mash bill translate to labels' individuality. Maker's Mark, for example, uses winter wheat instead of the more common rye. Bourbon labels owned by Beam Global Spirits & Wine (including the newish off ering Maker's Mark 46), saw a staggering 13.9 percent increase in sales from 2009 to 2010, proving that the brand is www.cheersonline.com retaining loyal afi cionados and attracting an increasing number of fans. Still, fl avor profi les among diff erent brands of Bourbons can be much narrower than those of various Scotches, says Curtis Cheney, head barman for Del Frisco's in Fort Worth, Texas, part of a nine- location steakhouse chain headquartered in Wichita, Kansas. He believes that even the most loyal Bourbon drinker can be persuaded to try a new brand. And while Rodriguez says Scotch and Irish Whiskey can often both be too complex and too expensive to use in cocktails, quality Bourbon is both wallet friendly and a willing partner to other components in the shaker. Rachael Lowe, director of wine and spirits for Chicago's Trump International Hotel and Tower, which has 339 guest rooms, agrees with the strength of Bourbon's market position and potential for further growth. "Mixologists are integrating it into more and more cocktails. It's almost a trend to be able to talk educatedly about Bourbon." She features it in several cocktails at the three bars onsite. At ReBar, the Strawberry Fashion ($17) mixes Bulleit Bourbon with Th e Bitter Truth RN 74 is part of the Mina Group and serves a bevy of whiskey-based cocktails. SEPTEMBER 2011 | 27