Cheers

Cheers September 2011

Cheers is dedicated to delivering hospitality professionals the information, insights and data necessary to drive their beverage business by covering trends and innovations in operations, merchandising, service and training.

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MICHAEL MINA features a self-serve Sazerac (left). Del Frisco's offers a barrel-aged Manhattan( left) and Blackberry Ginger Cocktail(right). Orange Bitters and strawberry purée; Sixteen's Manhattan ($16) uses Maker's Mark 46, Punt e Mes, Angostura and brandied cherries. Th e hotel carries twenty diff erent Bourbons, priced from $12 to $25. While Bourbon is often smooth and easygoing right out of the gate, rye's peppery bite frequently has a higher learning curve. Rye has a claim to fame of being the fi rst American whiskey and it was in fact one of the most popular spirits during Prohibition. Village Whiskey stocks ten rye whiskeys priced $9 to $60, and Rodriguez says rye is where mixologists are leading American whiskey. He recites the old adage, "rye to mix, Bourbon to sip," which speaks to its usefulness in cocktails. Th e addition of Aperol, grapefruit, lemon honey and mint in his De Rigeur ($13) balance and round out rye's peppery notes. Th e Sazerac is perhaps the best-known rye-based cocktail, where an absinthe rinse adds an intriguing layer of aromatics to the potent potable. MICHAEL MINA's Self Serve Sazerac ($10) is a whimsical, modern riff , where a chilled shot of Rittenhouse 100 Rye is served alongside a gelée of Peychaud's Bitters, an absinthe marshmallow and candied lemon zest. When reaching for peppery rye, Splendorini typically avoids mixing it with juices, opting instead for the cleaner fi nish that other spirits and fortifi ed wines will provide. "Because Bourbon is sweeter, more complex and also more viscous, it can better hold up to mixing with more fruit based cordials and syrups," he says. CHALLENGES AND ADVANTAGES One obstacle that whiskey as a category has had to overcome is its association as a category marketed to an "Older Generation." But in contrast to some brands that might seem older school, Splendorini contrasts Scotch's high price point and potential stigma as "what my father drinks" as more of a deterrent than the way domestic whiskey and Bourbon are marketed. "Whiskey 28 | SEPTEMBER 2011 across the board has really positioned itself not to be old an unapproachable, but more classic and retro." Th is fascination with vintage, retro and off -the-beaten track options translates to a propensity for single-barrel bottles from producers including Knob Creek, Jack Daniel's and Four Roses. "Th e uniqueness of every single barrel gives them appeal," explains Rodriguez, who believes the complexity of these products can also attract and serve as a bridge. So how else can operators reach out to neophytes of American whiskey—both Scotch lovers as well as non-American whiskey drinkers? "Being able to speak of the reasons behind their fl avor profi les and price tag and perhaps a story specifi c to the label, gets the guest excited about the product and also makes it more memorable, Lowe notes. She believes that diff erences among brands of American Bourbon, rye and whiskey are more of a refl ection of the producer and their techniques like wood used and ageing times than they are terroir diff erences. THE POINTS OF DIFFERENCE A little bit of knowledge also goes a long way with patrons. It defi nitely helps to know that Bourbon's high corn content renders it generally sweet and mild (and that it doesn't legally have to be produced in the state of Kentucky); that rye is peppery and bitey because of the grain used; and that Tennessee whiskey's charred new oak barrels generally result in a smoky, full-bodied spirit. Rodriguez believes in whiskey newbies starting simply, with a classic libation like a Manhattan or an Old Fashioned. Th e addition of ice will draw out the whiskey's nuances and its character will really shine through the handful of complementary ingredients. Village Whiskey's Old Fashioned ($12) pours Bottle in Bond Bourbon, lemon, sugar and house-made bitters and eschews any muddled fruit, opting for the original, more spirit-forward version. Cheney's standard introduction to whiskey is two ounces of the brand of www.cheersonline.com KATHLEEN SAGE, LAUREN PEREZ

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