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Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/504798
www.cheersonline.com 18 • May 2015 and spicy flavors to candy, cake and whipped cream, producers were ever innovating. The appeal, said industry observers, was to entry-level drinkers and easy mixability at home. Nowadays, growth of flavored vodka is down, while straight vodka is on the increase, according to the Distilled Spirits Council of the U.S. (DISCUS). When it comes to flavors, many bars are now infusing their own. At Extra Virgin, where cocktails run $10 to $13, "we don't carry many flavors, except citron; bars should have citron because a lot of cocktails call for that flavor," says Santoro. "Vodka is a neutral grain spirit, which is super easy to flavor in-house." One current infusions is a vanilla/poppy seed vodka. Messhall Kitchen carries only straight vodka. "If we want something flavored, we flavor it ourselves," says Mendez. "I haven't really experimented with flavored vodkas," says McGarry at the Dead Rabbit. "But we go through quite a bit of Absolut Citron in the Taproom, and it's in one of our best- selling drinks, The Perfect Lady Royale," which also includes crème de peche, lemon, mint, jasmine and prosecco. Arooga's Grille House & Sports Bar relies upon flavored vodkas for many of its drinks. Of the 25 vodkas stocked, just five are plain. "They are a big part of our spirits mix," says Huether. "The younger legal-age drinkers go for the flavors." A popular cocktail at Arooga's is the John Daly, named for the golfer. It's a take-off on the Arnold Palmer, and is a mix of Fireball Cinnamon whisky, Firefly Sweet Tea vodka and lemonade. The Inner Circle Vodka Bar currently offers eight house infusions, such as pineapple-citrus-jalapeno, but Cagle plans on a dozen rotating infusions. "Some people like the infusions just on the rocks, but most will go into cocktails." Infusions are priced at $7; cocktails are $7 to $8, with a few ranging up to $12. Hammer & Sickle's list runs 60% flavored vodka/40 plain. "We've gotten away from stocking the more obscure flavors," says Provart. "The flavors don't have the range in a drink that pure vodka has," he notes: "You can't change the flavor profile of Froot Loops that much." The restaurant also preps seven in-house infusions with Sobieski vodka, including horseradish, dill and honey— traditional Russian flavors. Infusion jars are displayed on the backbar to keep them top-of-mind. Although the Moscow Mule is by far the best-selling cocktail, also popular is the Proletariat, a vodka Martini variation made with horseradish and dill infusions. NEW AND NEXT As the weather warms, Hammer & Sickle is getting ready to roll out a summer food menu, says Provart. It will also update the vodka list with three summer seasonal infusions: strawberry- rhubarb, blueberry and cucumber. Sarooga vodka has worked so well for Arooga's that Huether intends to expand the program with some signature flavors. "Not just a citrus or cherry vodka," he says, "we're thinking outside the box—something different, but still artisanal and small batch." At Extra Virgin, Santoro is keeping busy ordering par stock of vodka. "People are still drinking lots of vodka," he says. "Vodka pays the bills." Thomas Henry Strenk is a Brooklyn-based freelance beverage writer who has a liquor cabinet full of different vodkas. EVERYBODY loves VODKA LEADING BRANDS OF VODKA, 2013-2014 (Thousands of 9-Liter Cases) 12/13 Brand Supplier 2013 2014p % Chg Smirnoff Diageo 9,580 9,310 -2.8% Absolut Pernod Ricard USA 4,440 4,135 -6.9% Svedka Constellation Brands 3,950 4,080 3.3% Grey Goose Bacardi USA 2,900 2,868 -1.1% SKYY Campari America USA 2,850 2,805 -1.6% Pinnacle Vodka Beam Suntory 2,756 2,675 -2.9% Burnett's Vodka Heaven Hill Brands 2,350 2,608 11.0% New Amsterdam E & J Gallo 1,978 2,480 25.4% Tito's Handmade Vodka Fifth Generation 1,200 2,200 83.3% Ketel One Vodka Diageo/Nolet Spirits 2,150 2,175 1.2% Total Leading Brands 34,154 35,336 3.5% Others 37,181 37,054 -0.3% Total Vodka 71,335 72,390 1.5% (p) Preliminary. Source: Handbook Advance 2015.