Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/56967
WINERY By Gary Werner Alt-Shift Barrel alternatives, or oak adjuncts, outperform their image n wine, as in life, gaps between reputation and real- ity most often mean disappointment. But there are examples to the contrary. Consider oak adjuncts. "There are many people who say you can't make good wine without barrels," said Jeff McCord, Ph.D., at Stavin Inc. in Cotati, Calif. "There's even a perception that adjuncts are not only cheapening, but cheating in some way." If this qualitative stigma were not enough, it seems most people don't even get the category name right. "They call our products 'oak alternatives'," said Alicia McBride at Innerstave in Sonoma, Calif. "But they're actually 'new-barrel alternatives.' That's why our booth at the Unified Symposium trade show was called Real Wine Oak. We didn't even have our company name prominently displayed. It was a statement to winemak- ers who say to us, 'We only use real oak.' Well, that's exactly what we offer." That offer must be very compelling, since stigma and misnomer are doing little to impede the growth of the oak adjunct sector. Comments from half a dozen signifi- cant suppliers indicate sales have increased 15%-20% during the past couple of years. So there's clearly a dif- ference between reputation and reality here. "There are several reasons" for the category's suc- cess, said Marion Blanchet Ghiringhelli at Nadalié Oak Add Ins of Calistoga, Calif. "Suppliers offer much better quality compared to, say, 10 years ago; and we have more stylistic options in wood types and toast levels. Plus, perhaps the main reason for many companies' AT A GLANCE Oak adjunct sales are growing in sharp contrast to the cat- egory's poor stereotype. Many adjuncts are used as supplements to – rather than replacements for – barrels. Adjunct quality criteria parallel those for barrels: sourcing, seasoning and toasting. Suppliers offer a complex product range, but they segment them functionally. WWW.VWM-ONLINE.COM Oak adjuncts come in many different formats, which serve dif- ferent purposes in the cellar. Photo: Oak Solutions Group using adjuncts today is cost. The economy is very chal- lenging, so budgets are getting tighter – and we can respond." DRAMATIC DIFFERENCE A persistently sluggish economy forces almost all business owners to sharpen their proverbial pencils, and that act tallies well for oak adjuncts. "If you have a neutral barrel and you put in a new French oak insert," said Ghiringhelli, "it will cost you about $60-$70. By contrast, new French oak barrels are around $1,000. So these are a great option for someone who was using barrels in the past, and now needs to reconsider their program because of price-points." The comparative numbers are even more dramatic for adjunct products other than inserts. Bill Wieland of Ohio-based Oak Chips Inc. highlighted one example. "If you put wine in a new French oak barrel, your oak cost can be up to $4 per bottle. While with adjuncts like chips, it can be more like 20 cents per bottle. That's clearly a huge difference." With this said, most suppliers point out that their work is not "against" barrels. "It's not that you don't MAR - APR 2012 VINEYARD & WINERY MANAGEMENT 31