Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/56967
VINEYARD By David Falchek Pinot Finger Lakes Noir in the Vintners turn their attention from the temperamental grape to more promising varieties nce pitched as the Finger Lakes' signature red, it appears that pinot noir has been all but dumped by the New York region's vintners. A few damaging winters, irregu- lar results and success with other reds such as lemberger and cab- ernet franc, have led the industry to stop obsessing over the fragile, inscrutable grape. Many Finger Lakes vintners still make pinot noir, but it doesn't get nearly the atten- tion it once received. "The burst of eagerness to do something serious (with pinot noir) has dissipated," said Peter Bell, winemaker at Fox Run Vineyards on the west side of Seneca Lake. 52 VINEYARD & WINERY MANAGEMENT MAR - APR 2012 "We are still making pinot noir, but not pouring the resources into it with the idea that it would result in something spectacular." Tracing the fluctuating Finger Lakes wine industry's interest in pinot noir is a study in a region try- ing to find its identity. Pinot noir at times has been part of the vision, at other times not. THE '80S: BULLISH ON BUBBLY The region's relationship with pinot noir is nothing new and cer- tainly predates a certain 2004 motion picture that generated inter- est in the variety. In the 1980s, large wineries in Winemaker Peter Bell of Fox Run Vine- yards still produces pinot noir, but dedi- cates fewer resources these days to the program. WWW.VWM-ONLINE.COM