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www.cheersonline.com 24 • October 2015 says. "Something like a 2005 Chateau Vignot, a bottle we list at $120." The wine blend is mostly merlot, he says of the Chateau Vignot. "The soft, rich tannins of the merlot, the earthiness and smokiness, play well with the lamb fl avors." MEAT THE REDS Clark also looks towards rioja wine from Spain this season, especially the gran reserva variety. "With a little aging, you can really get that fantastic oak-infl uenced fl avors," he explains. "That goes well with dill pickles, beautiful dried fruits, cranberries, fi gs." Rioja is a traditional Thanksgiving pairing, "because it goes well with the entire spread," he notes. "We've got a great bottle of Ribera del Duero—though not technically rioja, it has the same grapes and aging process—for $78 that is amazing with rich steaks and game," he adds. For something "more contemplative," Clark will suggest Steak & Whisky's trio of old vintages from Marques de Caceres (1990, 1994, 1995). These riojas can "make you stop and think about the changing seasons, and are worth the price point of $170 to $190." Reeds American Table serves a pork steak with braised collard greens, potato rösti, and crème fraîche ($15). Ivanov recommends pairing this with Bernard Magrez Kahina ($13 wa glass), a Moroccan red wine blend of 40% syrah and 60% grenache. "It's got that grenache spice, and some caramel notes," Ivanov says of the Kahina. "The pork has a soft fl avor profi le, so this wine matches well, since it's juicy without being overpowering." Another Fig & Olive fall specialty is rosemary lamb chops, smoked à la minute, with Herbs de Provence, goat cheese and chive gnocchi, braised eggplant with honey and thyme, and rosemary garlic olive oil ($39). "The smokiness rises right out of this dish," says Malnati. "To match with that, I usually steer guests towards an oaked California cabernet," which Fig & Olive sells for between $17 and $19 a glass. Clark is a big fan of cabernets from France: "They scream out for food this time of year." He will suggest pairing a dry- aged steak with cabernet from the Domaine de la Noblaie vineyard in Chinon ($17 per glass). "The cabernet tannins and greenness will cut through anything smoked or braised," he says. The beverage menu at Reeds American Table lists optimal food pairings for each order. In addition to red and white wines, several dishes are a match with vermouth. For instance, the fi ngerling potato salad with roasted red potatoes ($8) pairs well with the Salers Gentiane ($7 a glass), a French apéritif made from gentian root and white wine. The menu suggests diners try the Italian Americano Rosato Vermouth ($7) with the ricotta gnocchi appetizer ($11). "The vermouth has a distinctive tart fl avor, and that pairs well with the fall arugula of the gnocchi dish," says Ivanov. FALL INTO DESSERT Autumnal pairings can extend right through to the dessert course. Nico, for instance, ended one pairing dinner last fall with a dessert of black berries, fresh crème, red cabbage and juiced red beets. What to pair with it? Naba went with a bottle of Piedmont brachetto. Made from the aromatic Italian red grape of the same name, the brachetto is effervescent with a low ABV. "Anything with red fruit or dark berries is the perfect pairing," he explains. "It's almost like cheating." Another dessert featured last fall at Nico was a persimmon pomegranate spiced crumble. Naba matched this plate with Domaine Philippe Tessier's Cour-Cheverny. This white wine hails from France's eastern Loire Valley, where the Cour-Cheverny AOC is the last region growing the Romorantin varietal, a sibling of chardonnay. Why this wine with the fruit and vegetable dessert? "It has a burnt-hay smell, straw-like, and also is sweet," Naba says of the Romorantin wine. "It has weight and medium acid. It holds up well to the persimmon." REEDS' EXCLUSIVE PORTUGUESE BLEND Reeds American Table in St. Louis regularly takes research trips to fi nd wines, and tries to "bring home some of what we like best," says advanced sommelier/beverage director Andrey Ivanov. This includes the Quinta do Vale do Pios "Excomungado," from Portugal. This wine is unusual in the Douro region for being a mix of the varietals touriga nacional, touriga franca and tinta roriz. "The producer thought he would be excommunicated for making a blend," Ivanov says. "Hence the name of the wine." Reeds, which sells the wine for $32 a bottle, pairs the Excomungado with its roasted pork tenderloin with green onions, English peas, carrots and pancetta fried rice ($26). The wine is harvested from younger vines and kept in stainless steel tanks. It has "this twiggy quality, almost like underbrush, with an herby nose and taste of underripe cherry," Ivanov says. "When put together, it stands up to the pork tenderloin. It helps brighten up the dish."—KS Crisp Fall Pairs "Rioja is a traditional Thanksgiving pairing because it goes well with the entire spread." —Micah Clark, sommelier/general manager of Steak & Whisky