Cheers is dedicated to delivering hospitality professionals the information, insights and data necessary to drive their beverage business by covering trends and innovations in operations, merchandising, service and training.
Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/580366
www.cheersonline.com 44 • October 2015 VERMOUTHS AND FORTIFIED APERITIF WINES It was not so long ago that most bars would stock only two bottles of vermouth, sweet and dry. They would usually live in the speed rack, kept at room temperature, with a pour spout allowing even more contact with oxygen—not to mention a family of fruit fl ies living in the bottom of the bottle. Given the oxidized state and "off " fl avors of the vermouth in many bars and restaurants, it's no wonder we started drinking our Martinis drier and drier! Vermouth is an aromatized wine, meaning it should be treated more like a wine than a spirit. That means refrigeration once opened, after which vermouth and other aperitif wines have a shelf life that rarely should exceed one month. As such, vermouths are meant to be enjoyed quickly, both in cocktails such as the Negroni as well as on their own, over ice with perhaps a splash of sparkling water and a slice of orange. Here are a few that I tasted recently. IMBUE BITTERSWEET VERMOUTH Producer: Imbue Cellars Region: Oregon ABV: 16% Nose: White wine revealing fl oral notes of chamomile and elderfl ower, fresh-cut herbs, orange and tangerine citrus, cinnamon and clove spice. Palate: Honey, giving way to bitter herbal notes and lemon, apple and pear. Finish: Long and memorable, with a pleasant bitter/sweet reminder. BOISSIERE EXTRA DRY Producer: J. Boissiere Vermouth Region: France ABV: 18% Other types available: Sweet vermouth Nose: Oxidized white wine, fol- lowed by a wave of sweetness, fl oral notes of orange blossom and rose petals. Palate: Bright and crisp, with a surprising sweet fl avor with hints of dried herbs and toasted nuts. Finish: Dries out nicely with a touch of sweetness and a fresh grape reminder. By Tony Abou-Ganim COCCHI APERITIVO AMERICANO Producer: Giulio Cocchi Spumanti Region: Italy ABV: 16.5% Other types available: Barolo Chinato Cocchi, Cocchi Storico Vermouth di Torino Nose: Extremely fl oral—elderfl ower and orange blossom—followed by bright citrus and orange zest, leading to ripe tree fruits—apples and pears—with just a nod of bitterness. Palate: White wine with an initial blast of honey sweetness married to herbal bitter notes, cinnamon spice and citrus—lemon and orange zest. Finish: Fresh, long and vibrant, with the sweet-bitter-citrus notes lingering. CARPANO ANTICA FORMULA Producer: Fratelli Branca Distillerie Region: Italy ABV: 16.5% Other types available: Carpano Classico, Carpano Dry, Carpano Bianco Nose: Root beer, tobacco, dried fruits (prunes), cinnamon, dark chocolate, saddle leather, dried fruits—cherries and orange peel. Palate: Powerful and complex, citrus—grape- fruit and orange zest, vanilla, clove and cinnamon spice, raisins, prunes and toasted nuts. Finish: Long and lingering, with orange marma- lade, date and raisin.