Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/705606
1 4 V I N E YA R D & W I N E RY M A N A G E M E N T | J u l y - A u g 2 016 w w w. v w m m e d i a . c o m a varietal Petite Sirah (third-genera- tion winemaker Jim Concannon did so in 1964 from his 1961 vintage), Concannon is also the recognized source of the Cabernet that helped California replant after the devasta- tion of Prohibition (1920 to 1933). After phylloxera had decimated California's vineyards in the early 1890s, James Concannon trav- eled to Bordeaux to replenish his vineyards with the finest vines the world had to offer, which included extraordinary Cabernet imported from Chateau Margaux in 1893. The Concannon Margaux Caber- net survived in part by divine inter- vention: Concannon was tapped to make sacramental wine during Pro- hibition. Otherwise, its vineyards, like many others at the time, would have been ripped out in favor of fruit trees. In 1965, during a time of high concern about increasing virus and virus-like diseases threatening all of California's winegrowing regions, Jim Concannon worked in partner- ship with UC Davis to provide the Concannon Margaux budwood that became heat-treated Clones 7, 8 and 11 of Cabernet Sauvignon. Of the current 90,000 acres of Cabernet vines in California, 80 per- cent are estimated to be Concan- non Clones. Jim was named "Man of the Year" for his leadership in developing the Concannon Clones of Cabernet by Tasting Panel maga- zine in 2010. He is also known as "The Father of Petite Sirah." REPLANTING HISTORY Earlier this year, Concannon Vineyard began replacing existing plant material in its estate vineyard with 18,000 new Clone 7 Cabernet vines, each supported by its own hand-pounded metal stake. Fourth- generation vintner and Jim's Son, John Concannon, explains that this 16-acre block, known as Block 7, will be a high-end vineyard, farmed for just four tons per acre maxi- mum. It will serve as a source for the Concannon Reserve wine tier. Says Concannon, "This is a huge investment. We have a great story. We need fantastic wines to back it up. We need to pour Cabernet and Petite Sirah every day, and though we have Cabernet from Lake Coun- ty and Paso Robles, we need the reserve to come from our estate." Concannon says the winery is also slowly replanting the 133-year-old "Mother Vine Vineyard," home to those rare Concannon Margaux vines, with cuttings propagated from them to preserve this his- toric vineyard's viticultural integrity and heritage: Many of these vines are in decline after decades of pro- duction. Some, though, still bear a healthy crop of fruit, despite their advanced years. Their rugged, timeworn beauty is impossible to ignore, and instead of relegating them to the burn pile, John has taken some of the more striking ones and had them peanut shell- blasted, kiln-dried, shellacked and mounted on brass plates. They stand in the tasting room as stun- ning, once-living statues, preserved for future admiration. RETURN TO PROHIBITION LABEL Looking through the historical displays inside the Concannon tast- ing room sheds light on how wine labels have evolved. One thing you immediately notice is the lack of varietal information, and the low percentages of alcohol, mostly 12%. It also displays another first: In the early 1930s, second-generation winemaker, Captain Joe Concan- non, was one of the first to bottle a variety-labeled Cabernet Sauvi- gnon, called "California Cabernet." He also introduced the first varietal wine label in the United States, his 1925 Riesling, now at home in the Smithsonian. D u r i n g P r o h i b i t i o n , C o n c a n- non went to a two-part label that featured a "CV" logo bearing the company initials on the neck label. It looks very much like a choker. Subsequently, the label returned to a single unit, with the family crest emblazoned on it. Over the years, the signature iron gate that bears the Concannon crest and guards the entrance to the estate vineyard property became a dominant force on the labels, eventually becoming incorporated directly into the green glass bottles. All the heritage and reserve wines are graced by the impressive stamped gate and bear silver labels. The sleek new black and copper label for the Concannon Vineyard series bears the old Prohibition Fourth-generation vintner John Concan- non is working to replant the winery's estate vineyards. All Concannon heritage and reserve wines have a stamped gate and bear silver labels.