Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/705606
w w w. v w m m e d i a . c o m J u l y - A u g 2 016 | V I N E YA R D & W I N E RY M A N A G E M E N T 3 5 Although Renwood's rock star winemaker, Joe Shebl, has an extensive single-vineyard Zinfan- del program, the winery, one of the largest in the region, is well known for its Barbera. Shebl also makes plenty of Barbera under his own Fiddletown Cellars label. Renwood tasting room manager, Jennifer Hunt, says people come to Amador looking for Barbera and Primitivo icle Competition, where 25 of 98 submitted scored Gold or Double Gold. Many hailed from the Sierra Foothills. B a r b e r a , a n a n c i e n t v a r i e t y known for late-ripening and abun- dant acidity, has relatively soft tan- nins, making it a food-friendly wine. Known as "the people's grape" in Italy, it was typically overcropped to produce an abundance of cheap, rather thin red wine. Although it was heavily planted in the United States by Italian immigrants in the 19th century, it was relatively recently that growers learned how to properly crop it. It's Italy's third most popular red variety in terms of acreage. Grower Ann Kraemer, who farms Shake Ridge Vineyards in Amador, says you need to create a balance between fruit and acidity. "It has to be warm enough to ripen, but cool enough to preserve the per- fume and the fruit freshness. We gave Barbera the hottest seats in the house, on the west and south- west slopes," Kraemer states. She prunes late to avoid frost. Amador grower Dick Fields, who has almost nine acres of grapes planted, says, "Amador is abso- lutely the perfect place to grow Bar- these days. "There's an excitement around Italian varieties," she says. That excitement is echoed by winegrower Isy Borjon, one of the acclaimed personalities of the region, who farms about 500 acres there, with about 30 acres planted to Barbera. He can't keep up with the demand for Barbera fruit and is actively planting more. "It's the most popular wine in my tasting room, followed by Primitivo and Sangiovese. Italian wines are hot. I would love to plant more Barbera for my own brand. It's our bread and butter," he says. Amador pioneer Scott Harvey thinks the county is in another g o l d r u s h f o r I t a l i a n v a r i e t i e s . "Amador is the best place to grow Barbera today, perhaps even bet- t e r t h a n P i e m o n t e , " h e s a y s . "Think about it: We're in the foot- hills, with decomposed granite. Piemonte literally means 'at the foot of the mountains.' It's a sun- loving grape. We have no fog. In Italy, Nebbiolo gets all the pre- mium sites, while Barbera takes a back seat. Here, it thrives." And thrive it does, with a record number of Gold Medal Barberas at the 2016 San Francisco Chron- + Demand for Italian wine grape varieties is on a steady increase. + Amador County, once most known for its Zinfandel, is now most known for its Barbera. + Small producers across California are spearheading the effort to satiate demand. + Climate change experts are recommending planting Italian varieties. AT A GLANCE Winegrower Isy Borjon is actively plant- ing Barbera to keep up with demand. Cooper Vineyards Winemaker Michael Roser says Barbera is the winery's best seller. Winemaker Joe Shebl makes Barbera for both Renwood and his own label, Fiddletown Cellars.