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Issue link: http://read.dmtmag.com/i/524520
www.cheersonline.com 26 • June 2015 the basil-caper cream and the brininess of smoked salmon and seaweed," he notes. Mallini also touts the honeysuckle and pear notes of the Storybook Mountain Vineyards Estate viognier ($17 a glass, $77 a bottle) paired with pork belly atop a fresh pea risotto. He likens the wine to a Condrieu from the volcanic soils of France's Northern Rhône region—rich and sensuous, yet with ample acidity to cut through the rich pork belly and creamy risotto. When selecting wines to pair with summer-focused menus—which in Hawaii translates to any menu—Mallini looks for those that meet two criteria. "I look for acid to lift and blend the flavors of the dish, cleanse the palate and leave you wanting for more," he explains. "And for intense aromas to match and flora and exotic fruits of the island." WHO: Danny Fisher WHAT: Wine director WHERE: Ripple, Washington, D.C. FAVORITE SUMMER BOTTLE: Loire Valley Chenin Blanc: "The Loire Valley is my go-to for whites during the summer. They provide amazing acidity and brightness that is easy to drink on its own but also complements the food we serve." The most challenging part about summer food and wine pairings? "When guests want to drink big, bold wines that overwhelm the subtleties and the freshness of summer food," says Danny Fisher, wine director of the locally focused neighborhood restaurant Ripple in Washington, D.C. So for a dish such as hand-cut spaghetti with razor clams, ramps, asparagus and pine nuts, he reaches for a mineral-driven white that will let the dish shine. The 2013 Vincent Dampt chablis ($15 a glass, $45 a bottle) is bright and crisp, and complements the white wine in the sauce while offsetting the butter. This pairing definitely falls into the "if it grows together, it goes together" theory, Fisher notes. "I typically look for something that stands out about the dish, and then think about where in the world it might come from." For example, he says, "if a dish has shellfish as a main ingredient, my mind automatically goes to a place where grapes are grown on ancient river beds that contain fossilized shells in the soils." Orange wines—made with white grapes that undergo prolonged maceration with the skins and stems—are increasingly popping up on menus as a fun and funky alternative to rosés. Fisher pairs a crispy Maryland soft shell crab "Caesar" salad with braised romaine and parmesan tuile with the 2013 Biggio Hamina Cougar's Mark Vineyards, a pinot grigio-based orange wine from Oregon's Willamette Valley ($13 a glass, $39 a bottle). "The extended skin contact on this wine adds a dryness that helps it stand up to the fried crab and Caesar dressing." WHO: Erik Thiess-Kusiak WHAT: Food and beverage manager WHERE: Mirbeau Inn & Spa, Skaneateles, NY FAVORITE SUMMER BOTTLE: Txakoli rosé from Spain's Basque region: "It is a higher-acidity wine that is just so slightly sparkling it's intriguing. It's typically paired with sardines and other salty summer pinxtos." Guests craving a red wine during the dog days of summer would be wise to look to France, says Erik Thiess-Kusiak, the food and beverage manager for the F r e n c h - i n f l u e n c e d dining options at the Mirbeau Inn & Spa, in Skaneateles, NY. "Summer red preferences tend to lean towards regions like Beaujolais, which can be more flavorful and fruity up front, and overall less brooding." Mirbeau offers several, including the St. Cyr and Louis Jadot Château des Jacques Moulin-à-Vent (each priced at $48 a bottle). Thiess-Kusiak also thinks pink, pairing a grilled scallop Niçoise salad with a dry rosé from the Provence region such as the Château Montaud Côtes du Provence ($32 a bottle). "Like a lot of the dishes and pairings we serve, it's an attempt to paint a picture," he notes. "Fresh seafood on crisp vegetables, light, snappy rosé with melon and strawberry notes almost transport you to the shimmering Mediterranean coast." Early summer peas go into a truffle pea soup with grilled prawns, paired with a Bourgogne Blanc like the Jacque Charlet La Crochette ($43 a bottle) from the region's Macon-Villages appellation. The wine is fresh enough to foil the rich truffle shavings, yet elegant and earthy to partner with delicate early summer peas, he says. "Summer is one of my favorite seasons in regard to building menus," says Thiess-Kusiak. "The produce is fresh and local, and the menus are constantly changing." Summer wine pairings