Cheers

Cheers June 2015

Cheers is dedicated to delivering hospitality professionals the information, insights and data necessary to drive their beverage business by covering trends and innovations in operations, merchandising, service and training.

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www.cheersonline.com 29 June 2015 • red, floral tones and silky texture of Frappato." For guests ordering heavier proteins such as grilled beef or lamb, Tran recommends syrah, as it tends to be savory and spicy with a firm structure. He points out that those from France's Northern Rhône region tend display more of those savory, meaty and white pepper notes, while New World versions from places like California, Washington, South Africa and Australia will be dominated by blueberry and blackberry fruit, with the spice taking a backseat. WHO: Brian Phillips WHAT: CWE, operating partner/sommelier WHERE: Eddie V's Prime Seafood, a 13-unit chain, owned by the Orlando, FL-based Darden Restaurants FAVORITE SUMMER BOTTLE: "Riesling is beautifully aromatic, fresh and lean, yet it can pull off residual sugars that just make the wine highly quaffable." As the days get warmer, Brian Phillips turns to specific wine regions for the seafood-focused menu, including Oregon, New York, Germany, Austria, northern Italy, Chablis and Champagne. "These cool-climate wines are defined by their fresh minerality and higher acid levels," says Phillips, the operating partner/sommelier of Eddie V's Prime Seafood's 13 locations. "In turn, these higher-acid wines can allow for some residual sugar, but still finish fresh and dry." With the Pacific ahi tuna tartare, Phillips opts for the 2011 Selbach-Oster Kabinett riesling ($16 a glass, $64 a bottle). A touch of curry oil and Sriracha add heat, which is tamed by the wine's subtle sweetness. Eddie V's Georges Bank scallops are sautéed with citrus fruit, roasted almonds and brown butter, and require a wine that will both balance the citrus acidity and not come off cloying or heavy-handed. So Phillips selects the 2011 Jean-Marc Brocard Fourchame 1er Cru Chablis ($110 a bottle) from Burgundy, France. "It's a classic pairing, as the wine's crunchy acidity, notes of salinity and hints of toasty oak pair both as a comparative and contrasting element to the dish," he says. Of course, summer isn't all about seafood—some guests want that big hunk of grilled meat. Grilled dishes often contain substantial protein, as well as heavier seasonings and sauces, so wines with balanced acidity can fit the bill. Phillips recommends pinot noirs from Sonoma, as well as blaufränkisch and zweigelt from Austria. "These reds can be fresh and bright porch-pounders when kept simple." Kelly Magyarics, DWS, is a wine, spirits and lifestyle writer and wine educator in the Washington, D.C. area. She can be reached on her website, www. kellymagyarics.com, or on Twitter or Instagram @kmagyarics. Top, the Alaskan Halibut at Eddie V's Prime Seafood. Above right, Eddie V's Georges Bank scallops, sautéed with citrus fruit, roasted almonds and brown butter, are a match with the 2011 Jean-Marc Brocard Fourchame 1er Cru chablis. "The wine's crunchy acidity, notes of salinity and hints of toasty oak pair both as a comparative and contrasting element to the dish," says sommelier Brian Phillips. He pairs the Pacific ahi tuna tartare (left) with the 2011 Selbach-Oster Kabinett riesling; the wine's subtle sweetness tames the heat of the dish.

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